Anarchy's 180

anarchy

Active member
Nothing much to show off right now just wanted to get the build thread started since i started on my stand today. Got the wood cut. The stand will be all 2x6s. Its going to be heavy but atleast ill know its strong.

And of course once i started pocket drilling everything my drill dies. So now i have 2 drills charging, hopefully i dont run into this problem again.
This is as far as i got with it.

This is how each corner will be supported


Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Active member
My friend and I build my tank stand by 2x6 too it is very strong
I like fishing too lol.
Our fishing trip is coming up at the end of july. 1 week in the Upper Peninsula right by Lake Superior. My wifes really the fisherman in the house. I enjoy it but she gets too serious lol.

Yeah the 2x6s will be strong and they will be pocket drilled and screwed with kreg 2 1/2" HD screws, metal corner brackets and regular screws. Only thing im not doing to hold it together is wood glue, but jf i find some laying around i may just use it

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

fishtank44

Active member
Our fishing trip is coming up at the end of july. 1 week in the Upper Peninsula right by Lake Superior. My wifes really the fisherman in the house. I enjoy it but she gets too serious lol.

Yeah the 2x6s will be strong and they will be pocket drilled and screwed with kreg 2 1/2" HD screws, metal corner brackets and regular screws. Only thing im not doing to hold it together is wood glue, but jf i find some laying around i may just use it

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
It is strongest with metal support each corner but mine stand is fine with out it
I never fishing over night only couple times from 5:00am to 9:00 pm at Chain O Lake and IL river by spring valley

- - - Updated - - -

Our fishing trip is coming up at the end of july. 1 week in the Upper Peninsula right by Lake Superior. My wifes really the fisherman in the house. I enjoy it but she gets too serious lol.

Yeah the 2x6s will be strong and they will be pocket drilled and screwed with kreg 2 1/2" HD screws, metal corner brackets and regular screws. Only thing im not doing to hold it together is wood glue, but jf i find some laying around i may just use it

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
It is strongest with metal support each corner but mine stand is fine with out it
I never fishing over night only couple times from 5:00am to 9:00 pm at Chain O Lake and IL river by spring valley
 

anarchy

Active member
Front


Side


Back


Its only held together with kreg hd pocket hole screws and 3" screws. Think its good for me to move on to plywood and paint?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

Sawdonkey

Premium member
Front


Side


Back


Its only held together with kreg hd pocket hole screws and 3" screws. Think its good for me to move on to plywood and paint?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Do you need to marry a piece inside the corners to better connect the bottom and top frames to the vertical pieces? I wouldn't feel good about just pocket screws. You're looking at close to 2K lbs sitting on this thing.
 

fishtank44

Active member
I do not have piece of wood in each corners to connect its together but I have plywood on top and bottom of stand to tight it down.
 

fishtank44

Active member
It is more firm and steady if each corner top and bottom frames together with vertical pieces I may add piece of wood each corner for my stand for more secure.
 

Spartanman22

Well-known member
My frame was built identically to yours and mine feels like a tank. It's got a 3/4" plywood top and bottom and skinned in 3/4 ply.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Active member
Do you need to marry a piece inside the corners to better connect the bottom and top frames to the vertical pieces? I wouldn't feel good about just pocket screws. You're looking at close to 2K lbs sitting on this thing.
This is the stand its currently been on for the past year (roughly)


He has less vertical supports than i do and alot less 2x6. I was also worried about it but after comparing the 2 stands i feel better about mine

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Active member
Tank and sump are home! Everything needs to be cleaned and sterilized


The only part that was a huge oops was the original plan was to do a 2x4 frame on the bottom, but i couldnt get to it in my shed so i used 2x6 and forgot to recalculate the height so now the stand is 39.5" tall. Oh well guess ill be using a chair everytime i work on the tank

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

Spartanman22

Well-known member
Looking good! I'd rather have it be too tall than too short, it'll be nice for viewing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Active member
Looking good! I'd rather have it be too tall than too short, it'll be nice for viewing


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks. Everything has been fast paced up to this point but this is where everything gets put on hold. Wifes cut my budget off for awhile lol

I want to do the colored pvc piping. I know plumbing is going to be one of the most expensive parts of this build because i want a manifold so thats alot of gate valves. Also is there a way to do bean animal with dual overflows. It was running herbie but it was really loud and thats not going to be acceptable.

This is the room its going in. It will go in the corner where the tall cabinet is. And you can see the "hidden" door where the fish room will hopefully be


Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

Spartanman22

Well-known member
I'm not too sure about the bean animal, but in my opinion don't spend the extra money on the gate valves. If you're planning on running Biopellets off the manifold then a gate valve might be useful on that outlet, but for most other reactors (GFO, carbon, ATS, etc.) the fine tuning really isn't all that necessary. I had gate valves on my last manifold. I went with true Union ball valves this time around. I just found that I never really utilized the added fine tuning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Active member
Yeah youre probably right ill just do gate valves on the drains and return

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Active member
There wasnt many pictures of bean animal with dual overflows but i did find this one. Curious if this would work


Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

anarchy

Active member
Figured i should make the build thread a little more professional and throw up an equipment list

Tank: 180 gallon aqueon RR with 2 3/4" returns drilled in the back. Plumbing currently setup for herbie
Picture from when my friend first set the tank up


Skimmer: reef octopus classic 225 int
Right side comparing to my old RO 150


Sump: acrylic sump unknown manufacturer 3 chamber 48x16x15


Flow:
Return- jebao dc12000
In tank- 2 rw20, 1 rw15, 1 rw8, maybe 1 hydor 1400

Lighting:
2 250w halides 1 400w halide 4 48" t5

Calcium Reactor:
Precision marine

ATO:
Diy ato with dual float switches

Heaters:
2 300w jagers

Extra:
-Apex with temp probe and 2 ph probes
-brs dual reactor

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
Top