Guide to the most commonly used treatments, dips, methods, etc. in one spot

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strike2867 said:
This is unlikely to work. There are standard methods that have proven to consistently work, metro isn't in that list.
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It has worked for me every time. It's sort of like the common cold, the goal is to help the fish combat the parasite by boosting it's immune system while preventing secondary infections from the parasite feeding on the host. I won't go as far as say that it completely eradicates the parasite, but it will keep it in proportions small enough that the fish's immune system will combat it. I've never seen a reoccurrence since using it, and haven't had any new fish get infected either.
 
ddiomede said:
It has worked for me every time. It's sort of like the common cold, the goal is to help the fish combat the parasite by boosting it's immune system while preventing secondary infections from the parasite feeding on the host. I won't go as far as say that it completely eradicates the parasite, but it will keep it in proportions small enough that the fish's immune system will combat it. I've never seen a reoccurrence since using it, and haven't had any new fish get infected either.
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I can't say whether or not it will help fish health, just that it very likely won't eradicate it from your tank. The Ich will still go through its natural monthly cycles and keep reinfecting your fish, whether you see it or not.
 
strike2867 said:
I can't say whether or not it will help fish health, just that it very likely won't eradicate it from your tank. The Ich will still go through its natural monthly cycles and keep reinfecting your fish, whether you see it or not.
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That's what I was referring to when I said I wouldn't go as far as say eradication. But I've had aquariums going on 30 years now and the signs of icy/crypt are nearly the same for FW/SW. They are typically external(white spots) as well as internal(fish shakes almost like something is agitating its gills, as well as rubbing on rocks, scape, etc.).

Complete eradication is only possible if you go fallow for a couple months, and even then, there's still the chance it's lurking. The only proven method is copper. And even with copper, the parasite has to be in its free swimming stage to be affected and killed. Bumping up the heat will often speed up the life cycle allowing you to kill it.
 
ddiomede said:
That's what I was referring to when I said I wouldn't go as far as say eradication. But I've had aquariums going on 30 years now and the signs of icy/crypt are nearly the same for FW/SW. They are typically external(white spots) as well as internal(fish shakes almost like something is agitating its gills, as well as rubbing on rocks, scape, etc.).

Complete eradication is only possible if you go fallow for a couple months, and even then, there's still the chance it's lurking. The only proven method is copper. And even with copper, the parasite has to be in its free swimming stage to be affected and killed. Bumping up the heat will often speed up the life cycle allowing you to kill it.
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Tank transfer and hypo are also pretty proven to work. The heat part is only for freshwater ich, it has been proven to not be true for marine ich. On the other hand if you quickly lower tank temperatures, the fish could lose their mucous coating so you could see the Ich.
 
Heat doesn't help for marine ich (really wish people would start calling it by its real name, cryptocrayon, not "ich", but our hobby is not known for accurate naming....)

In any case, I think we have quite a few threads on here regarding the debate between eradication of crypto vs. keeping fish relatively healthy. Different philosophies that result in different treatment methods. Regarding proven treatment methods, there are more chemicals other than copper that work, and these have been scientifically studied and proven to work.

The real intent of my post would be get this thread back on track - if more people post tips & guides, that would be great! I will be happy to chime in with an "eradication" technique eventually, so that we have both philosophies up :) Just... Maybe not while at work, lol.
 
tkh said:
Heat doesn't help for marine ich (really wish people would start calling it by its real name, cryptocrayon, not "ich", but our hobby is not known for accurate naming....)

In any case, I think we have quite a few threads on here regarding the debate between eradication of crypto vs. keeping fish relatively healthy. Different philosophies that result in different treatment methods. Regarding proven treatment methods, there are more chemicals other than copper that work, and these have been scientifically studied and proven to work.

The real intent of my post would be get this thread back on track - if more people post tips & guides, that would be great! I will be happy to chime in with an "eradication" technique eventually, so that we have both philosophies up :) Just... Maybe not while at work, lol.
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Thanks Erik.

If you have a different method, please post it, if you have a link it would be helpful as well. The goal of this whole thread is to give people some direction so that they can make the decision for themselves.

I'll do my best to keep the first post updated. If you have a contrary method, just indicate the original number in the first post and I'll cite your post number. Let's not start arguing and try to keep this helpful vs. who's method is better. If it didn't work for you, cool. Post a different method.
 
17. Mycobacterium Marinum: the fish disease you can catch

Are you aware of the dangers that Mycobacterium marinum poses to your fish and, more importantly, you? Never heard of it? How about fish tuberculosis, piscine TB, fish tank granuloma, or possibly swimming pool nodules? These are all common names for somewhat uncommon ailments caused by Mycobacterium marinum. You might recognize from the genus, that Mycobacterium marinum is a distant relative to the organism that causes tuberculosis in humans.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycobacterium_marinum

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-07/sp/feature/index.php

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?p=21042196#post21042196


A cure scenario...
A combination of sulfa and rifampin for 9 months completely cleared it up. Paitent had 3 surgeries to debulk the lesions and use for biopsies. It went away very slowly, so slow that they thought it wasn't going to go away. There are a few scar tissue lumps that will never go away, but no major damage. It was scary for a while.
 
The last one is a bit of a stretch for the topic, but I use it as part of the ETC in the title.

After review of my notes, the rest are primarily reef chemistry or equipment related and not procedure related.
 
1mg said:
What about vodka dosing?
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Here you go... Please include on initial post Dom.


18. Carbon Dosing

Vinegar is cheap, easily dosed straight from the jug w/ a peristaltic pump and done on many remarkable sps tanks. Vodka has 8 times more carbon, therefore the math need to be corrected for this but it is done in the links below. The 3rd and 4th options are sugar and vit C dosing. I'll leave the comparison to the individual as NO carbon dosing should be attempted with our extensive reading first.

Vodka dosing…distilled
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php

Coral – Probiotics
http://www.coralmagazine-us.com/cont...cs-demystified

Carbon dosing rules post
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...postcount=1540

Randy’s Vinegar dosing limit reached and dosing info
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=1813810
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...5&postcount=23
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...1&postcount=81

Vinegar dosing chart
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...&postcount=150

View attachment 19299





My spreadsheet for tracking dosing along with the vinegar dosing schedule from previous post.



**downloadable .xlsx**
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bx_R...it?usp=sharing



View attachment 19298
 
Just a heads up I was carbon dosing and now a lot of my chaeto had died because it didn't have any nutrients. So if you are gana start dosing you might want to pull out you macro algea first so it doesn't muck up you water.
 
1mg said:
Just a heads up I was carbon dosing and now a lot of my chaeto had died because it didn't have any nutrients. So if you are gana start dosing you might want to pull out you macro algea first so it doesn't muck up you water.
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Another thought, before you start going into the trouble of carbon dosing, try stronger lights for your macroalgae. Make sure they're the optimum wavelength. Unless you're doing something wrong, macro should be able to easily get your nitrates under 5. Any lower and even sps starts having issues.
 
I have 0 nitrates never had any since I cycled but I had a little HA pop up and seen I had some phosphates. The carbon helped, but I have started pushing more through my skimmer to make up for stopping dosing of the carbon.
 
Well thanks for ALL that - I will keep this handy for any of these many situations we all will possibly run into :) Thanks again for sharing all your knowledge
 
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