Ro Di connections

Knuckles

New member
I had to disconnect my to di system from brs to move it and didnt label where each line went. It was the 75 gpd unit but I also have the upgrade kit. I want to make sure I have the 75 gpd unit working right first and then I'll add the upgrade


Here are some pictures. If you could take a look at it and let me know if it looks like it's connected properly or not I'd appreciate it. Thanks



I have the incoming water going through the in sensor. The in is connected to the sediment filter and then into the membrane. The membrane is then connected to the carbon block

Not sure if that's correct or not
 

DD

"Rambo"
You might want to check the instruction manual on the BRS site, or email them for a copy. I think Tom is correct as that is the way the water should flow through the entire system. Just check their site and if you can't find any instructions, try emailing them. If you connect it wrong, worse thing that'll happen is you'll end up with bad water hitting the DI depleting it very quickly.
 

Knuckles

New member
Still having trouble with this system. It has brand new membranes. Di resin also fairly new. Was blue and now brown. It turned that way very quickly.

I'm getting 6-9 Tds on the out side of my unit and 119 on the in

I think it's connected right, but it doesn't appear to be working properly

I have the in coming water line connected to the sediment filter


The red line coming out of the carbon block goes to the 90 on the membrane that is not the check valve. Flush kit is connected to the second 90 which has the check valve



Red line coming out of the single 90 on the other side connects to this valve which goes to the in side of the di resin

. The blue line coming out the out side if the di resin goes to my top off container


Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

madjoe

Premium member
Im fairly sure if it was blue and its brown now the di is shot. What cause it to go so fast maybe some one elae can chime in on that .
 

emilybear91

New member
Did you say your "product" water is coming from the side of the membrane housing with only one connector? There's the problem. The order is sediment, then carbon, then to the end of membrane housing with single inlet. The other end of the housing has two outlets. The check valve one, which should be installed in the off-center outlet port, goes to the flush kit/flow restrictor then to drain. The centered outlet port is your product water, which is then routed through the DI unit.
 
Did you say your "product" water is coming from the side of the membrane housing with only one connector? There's the problem. The order is sediment, then carbon, then to the end of membrane housing with single inlet. The other end of the housing has two outlets. The check valve one, which should be installed in the off-center outlet port, goes to the flush kit/flow restrictor then to drain. The centered outlet port is your product water, which is then routed through the DI unit.
+1

Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
 

Knuckles

New member
Did you say your "product" water is coming from the side of the membrane housing with only one connector? There's the problem. The order is sediment, then carbon, then to the end of membrane housing with single inlet. The other end of the housing has two outlets. The check valve one, which should be installed in the off-center outlet port, goes to the flush kit/flow restrictor then to drain. The centered outlet port is your product water, which is then routed through the DI unit.
Thanks for the advice. I changed the lines as you said. It is still showing 7 Tds. Must be the di resin is bad. Also noticed that when I turn the flush kit on to flush the membrane I am still getting water going into my top off container
 

emilybear91

New member
Opening the flush should make waste water bypass the flow restrictor(may be hidden in a hose of the flush kit) and steam down your drain. Make sure your flush kit is connected to the off center port on the membrane housing end with 2 ports. The line to the DI should come from the centered port right next to the waste port. The check valve is for the waste port.
It does sound like your resin is dead as well. The quick color change was the result of sending non-RO water through it, and indicates that it's used up.
Hope this helps. Post another picture if it's still not working correctly.
 

Knuckles

New member
Before I add the new du resin I got from RW I just want to double check this is right. Since I moved the lines the Tds has gone down to three

The check valve on the double sided goes in the port that's off center which connects to my waste line/flush valve. The other port on the double side goes to the in side on di resin

Incoming water from house goes to sediment

Carbon block connects with single port on membrane

Flush valve still doesn't seem to be working. Water still flowing into my top off container when I move the valve
 

emilybear91

New member
Do you have a second carbon block? The red tube from the left side of the membrane housing does not appear to be going to the DI...
 

Knuckles

New member
It is going to the di. If u maximize the picture the line is going under the flush valve to the in side of the di resin
 

emilybear91

New member
I see. That's right. The line out of the DI goes to your top off container? And the flush/flow restrictor is plumbed to the drain? You should only open the flush valve now and then to flow water over the membrane and clear any deposits. During normal operation the valve should be closed and wastewater this directed through the restrictor.
 

Knuckles

New member
I know but water is still dripping into the container when I open the valve. When it's perpendicular to all the lines it dumps lots of water into the container. When it's parallel to the flush valve lines is when it dumps lots of water down the drain. Seems backwards to me
 

Knuckles

New member
Ok then. Changed out the di resin and flushed it out til it reached 0 Tds. Now making fresh water Tds free
 
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