Reefwise
Premium Sponsor
Hi Guys!
I have seen a lot of talk about QT setups and a couple ich threads lately so I thought I would share my own qt process and thoughts.
First of all, I would like to mention a few facts some of the reefers my not know just to show how important quarantining fish is. I'll start with a positive first. Ich outbreaks are not common on wild caught fish do to the nature of the ich life cycle. If a fish is unlucky enough to have a ich trophont attach to ich, the ich will drop off in 3-7 days. From here the free swimming trophonts settle to the ground and enter the reproductive stage. When free swimming theronts are released 3-28 days later, the original host fish is no longer in sight.
Now for the negatives...In a closed aquarium the fish are in closed system with the parasite so the ich lifecycle continues on until the tank is fallow or the fish are killed.
A common misconception is "I have not seen ich in my tank in years so I do not have it." Unfortunately ich typically infects fishes gills which we can not see. An aquarium can have a subdued case of ich for years without anyone noticing it. This very subdued ich will can come out when stress is added to the tank (ie new fish added, aggression between fish, change in water parameters). It is this fact that tells us we should quarantine all new fish. Only when quarantining our fish properly can we be certain of system is ich free.
My QT System /Process
I prefer hypo-salinity for a few reasons. First, putting any fish in copper is a risk especially for 8 weeks. Fish such as angels, wrasses, tilefish, and cardinalfish are extra sensitive to copper. Second, I am a scientist by trade and like facts. To truly be sure you are completely curing the fish, treatment needs to be maintained for at least 4 weeks after any sign of ich. If copper levels get too low or salinity too high (depending on what treatment you are using) the time clock needs to start again. The problem with copper to me is it forms many different complexes in the water so you cannot get a test kit to accurately measure it.....unless to have a uv spectrometer in your basement. With hypo-salinity, I can test my specific gravity a few times a day and be sure I never exceed 1.0095. Also, hypo-salinity does not harm the fish like copper either.
All of my new arrivals get quarantined in hypo-salinity for 6-8 before I put them in my display tank.
Here is my system..
Approx 33 gallon tank
(2) biowheel biological filters
9W UV Sterilizer - I figured it was a wise investment for only $25 even though its not a closed loop
Air Pump - This helps keep my pH constant
Seachem Ammonia Alert
Bare Bottom - No Substrate!!!!
PVC for shelter and comfort.
My Process
I start with the salinity that I get the fish in at. I then do a 20% water change daily until the salinity is at 1.009 to 1.0095. I remove the aquarium water and replace it with ro/di water. The salinity should be kept below 1.010 at all times so I allow myself a cushion. However, I do buffer the pH of the ro/di water up with soda ash before adding it to the aquarium. The hardest part of hypo-salinity is maintaining pH. I would recommend getting a pH meter or pH pen and check the pH twice a day.
I will keep the fish at 1.009 for 4-6 weeks. I will then raise the pH up just as I brought it down by replacing the qt tank water with normal mixed saltwater of 1.025. Specific gravity should not be raised more then 0.002 per day.
I will use melafix if I suspect any bacteria infection. I feed spectrum pellets, a variety of flake food, algae strips or sea veggies, and enriched frozen food. I also enrich my food with garlic and selcon.
What's in my system now
I currently have a Black Tang, Powder Brown Tang, and a Heniochus diphreutes. The rumor is that the black tang cost is going to go up significantly shortly so I could not resist.
I have seen a lot of talk about QT setups and a couple ich threads lately so I thought I would share my own qt process and thoughts.
First of all, I would like to mention a few facts some of the reefers my not know just to show how important quarantining fish is. I'll start with a positive first. Ich outbreaks are not common on wild caught fish do to the nature of the ich life cycle. If a fish is unlucky enough to have a ich trophont attach to ich, the ich will drop off in 3-7 days. From here the free swimming trophonts settle to the ground and enter the reproductive stage. When free swimming theronts are released 3-28 days later, the original host fish is no longer in sight.
Now for the negatives...In a closed aquarium the fish are in closed system with the parasite so the ich lifecycle continues on until the tank is fallow or the fish are killed.
A common misconception is "I have not seen ich in my tank in years so I do not have it." Unfortunately ich typically infects fishes gills which we can not see. An aquarium can have a subdued case of ich for years without anyone noticing it. This very subdued ich will can come out when stress is added to the tank (ie new fish added, aggression between fish, change in water parameters). It is this fact that tells us we should quarantine all new fish. Only when quarantining our fish properly can we be certain of system is ich free.
My QT System /Process
I prefer hypo-salinity for a few reasons. First, putting any fish in copper is a risk especially for 8 weeks. Fish such as angels, wrasses, tilefish, and cardinalfish are extra sensitive to copper. Second, I am a scientist by trade and like facts. To truly be sure you are completely curing the fish, treatment needs to be maintained for at least 4 weeks after any sign of ich. If copper levels get too low or salinity too high (depending on what treatment you are using) the time clock needs to start again. The problem with copper to me is it forms many different complexes in the water so you cannot get a test kit to accurately measure it.....unless to have a uv spectrometer in your basement. With hypo-salinity, I can test my specific gravity a few times a day and be sure I never exceed 1.0095. Also, hypo-salinity does not harm the fish like copper either.
All of my new arrivals get quarantined in hypo-salinity for 6-8 before I put them in my display tank.
Here is my system..
Approx 33 gallon tank
(2) biowheel biological filters
9W UV Sterilizer - I figured it was a wise investment for only $25 even though its not a closed loop
Air Pump - This helps keep my pH constant
Seachem Ammonia Alert
Bare Bottom - No Substrate!!!!
PVC for shelter and comfort.
My Process
I start with the salinity that I get the fish in at. I then do a 20% water change daily until the salinity is at 1.009 to 1.0095. I remove the aquarium water and replace it with ro/di water. The salinity should be kept below 1.010 at all times so I allow myself a cushion. However, I do buffer the pH of the ro/di water up with soda ash before adding it to the aquarium. The hardest part of hypo-salinity is maintaining pH. I would recommend getting a pH meter or pH pen and check the pH twice a day.
I will keep the fish at 1.009 for 4-6 weeks. I will then raise the pH up just as I brought it down by replacing the qt tank water with normal mixed saltwater of 1.025. Specific gravity should not be raised more then 0.002 per day.
I will use melafix if I suspect any bacteria infection. I feed spectrum pellets, a variety of flake food, algae strips or sea veggies, and enriched frozen food. I also enrich my food with garlic and selcon.
What's in my system now
I currently have a Black Tang, Powder Brown Tang, and a Heniochus diphreutes. The rumor is that the black tang cost is going to go up significantly shortly so I could not resist.
