Help i have ich in my DT

If your tank is a FOWLR, you can just put copper in the tank to kill off the ich. If it is a reef tank though, then you will need to take the fish out, and treat them in a QT tank. Then run the display tank fallow for about 10 weeks to fully get rid of the ich.
 
vic2631 said:
Help i have ich in my DT how can i get rid of it
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How certain are you its ich. How did you get it in your dt. Do you have a qt. Does TTM mean anything to you?
To remove it you need to do a tank transfer method to the fish and keep them in a holding tank. Leave the dt fishless for 6 to 7 weeks. Thats to completly. Do you know how ich lives? Then youll know how it dies. It needs. Host. With out fish it will die.

Or. Live with it. Keep your fish stress free and fat so the fish live with ich as any fish can add ich back into the tank.
You can invest in a uv light to help with keeping desease in control in your DT.

Theres been some talk about feeding Garlic to the infected fish in food. Read up before you try anythin.theres no easy way how to remove it....no shortcuts but theres ways to aid in the battle


Edit. See above for fish only or reef.
Thanks
 
fish only at this time but i have some snails in there .will the copper hurt me in the future when i plan on getting an anomene
 
if you have a Quarantine tank already set up, great. Copper is a great way to rid of the parasite. clownfishes and wrasse don't do well with copper though. if you don't have QT tank set up, it's going to be hard to start one up from scratch because it's not cycled. It will be a ***** dealing with ammonia/nitrites which will kill everything in the QT tank.
Some people get away with just dealing with it in the display tank if it's not too bad yet. feed fishes extra feedings, some people like fish food that have garlic to stimulate appetite and improve immune system of fishes.
 
Check out Polyp Lab Medic. Fortunately I haven't had the need to try it. The reason I feel comfortable suggesting this to you is because of my research.
I keep two files for my reef build, one is marked Reef Build, the other, A-1 Reef Build. The A-1 file consist of things I've researched and felt were worthy for the A-1 designation.
Good luck, I hope this helps. Whatever you decide please keep us up to date.


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Thanks feeding nls+a with garlic and tried paraguard by sechem not helping

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vic2631 said:
Thanks feeding nls+a with garlic and tried paraguard by sechem not helping

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No matter what anybody tells you, there are no reef safe solutions. Garlic has been shown to actually be harmful, but might help if the fish aren't eating.
 
Agreed with some of the other posts... I know people who have had luck feeding heavy with NLS Ther-A, but there are no effective in-tank ich solutions.
 
strike2867 said:
No matter what anybody tells you, there are no reef safe solutions. Garlic has been shown to actually be harmful, but might help if the fish aren't eating.
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Do you have a link to the study? Never heard of that. My NLS finicky pellets that I've been using for years have garlic and my fishes are healthier than me :)


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Id like to add that i ment to say ginger. Not garlic.
Yes garlic is added in by some food companies. But. What i ment to say was. Read up on feeding ginger into the fish food(soak method) its supposed to improve drastically in immune system.

I will say i have not tried it. But i know a person whose blue hippoTang was infested with it(probably other tank mates as well) he has no QT in place and went the in DT method. He soaked ginger in with the pellets and prepared food. Within 2 full days the ich looked gone. By the week it showed no signs of ich and has not come back. YES there probably still is ich in his system. But he continues to see no visable signs of it and usea ginger in his feedings often not daily.

I am not advocating any use of ginger. But as i stated. Please read and read more before doing anything
 
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If you do end up placing them in a qt, and leaving the tank fallow, I suggest going longer than 6-7 weeks. Studies have shown cysts to lay dormant for up to 90-91 days. Although this is not the norm, better to be safe, than sorry.
 
there are only three ways to combat ich. copper, tank transfer, and hypo salinity. put copper in your dt and you can forget about cuc or coral. period. garlic may entice a fish to eat but does nothing for ich. uv will not rid a tank of fish. you can leave the fish alone and hope they can overcome the ich. it does happen, but to get rid of it, you must treat them in a qt and your dt will have to go fallow for a minimum of 72 days.
 
Everyone has an opinion on this. If you read about all the science, triggerdood has the best answer to get rid of the cysts.
Is it the best answer for your situation? How big is your display? How much money do you have to fix the problem? If your displays is only 30 gallons you might be better off taking everything out of it and starting off with some new rock from a display that you know is ich free. QT your old live rock in a large plastic container with a heater and a pump for the 91 days and do the total tank transfer method with your fish.
If you don't have the time or money to do all that the best thing might be to do would be to get a QT set up. Qt setup with 2 10 gallon tanks and 2 qt heaters, pumps or air pumps with extra line and air stones and just do the total tank transfer with your fish. Get your fish free of any active cyst on their body. Feed them with a high-protein food soaked in selcon. Make sure you keep the QT tank clean so you don't get an ammonia spike.
To be completely free you need a lot of equipment tanks, pumps, heaters. You will need to do a lot of work testing, water changes, moving your livestock.
What's best for you is what's really important, so that you enjoy what you're doing.
I would avoid the copper. Once you do copper you may always have a problem with any of equipment used with copper.
 
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