Please help with RODI Filters

Sawdonkey

Premium member
I bought the 90 gal per day Spectrapure unit about a year ago. I have a 275 gal system or so, so i've used it a lot and I've not replaced any filters. The TDS meter still shows zero coming out and about 140 going in. However, it seems to be making water much more slowly than before.

I know I need to replace the carbon, DI, and sediment filters. Do I also need to replace the RO membrane? My pressure gauge shows about 40lbs. Do I need a booster pump?

I'm also interested in adding another membrane so I'm not putting so much wastewater down the drain. How does this work?

Any educated advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hi Gunner
Putting a pump on a r/o unit will increase your output by about 50% and will also reduce your wastewater by about 35% I have a pump on mine and would not be without one I used to do Discus fish would never have enough water At first it seemed like I had more waste water But it was less I would change the carbon filter and the prefilter every 6 months to protect the membrane I tried running 2 membrane to reduce the waste and I had the same amount of waste water. The average city water pressure is about 30 pounds so the 40 pounds you have is not bad Like I said if to put a pump on your r/o unit you will be able to double or triple the life of the membrane
 
Ok, booster pump it is. Should I buy a new membrane along with the other filters or is mine still good if I'm still reading zero tds?

Thanks guys.
 
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I would get a booster pump and change out your sediment and carbon and keep your old DI, its probably not bad. i would order new DI just in case. DI is not a must have, your RO membrane should get the TDS down to 0 by itself. The DI just polishes what the RO didnt get.
 
well my 75gpd unit runs at bout 64psi and i get 1 ppm tds out of the membrane if u have never changed the filters i would try changing the filters bc once the sediment filter starts to clog u loose pressure and if u havent changed them in a yr pretty sure ur carbon block is starting to clog so i say change ur filters first and start changing the sediment quarterly just bc its cheap and will help keep carbon block clean and with as much water as u make change carbon block every 6 months u might still need a booster but i would swap out the filters first and see where ur at psi wise so u dont have to spend the money just my 2c ...but if ur gunna go dual membrane then ur gunna need the booster so u dont burn through di resin
 
I change DI when it looks all brown. I have 2 DI filters running & switch them out. The membrane should be food for 2 years.
 
Thanks. I make about 15 gal on non water change weeks. I make an extra 50 gal for a water change about once a month. I just ordered new filter and I'll consider a pump after I see performance with the new filters.
 
I change DI when it looks all brown. I have 2 DI filters running & switch them out alternately. The membrane should be good for 2 years.
 
Be careful with the dual membrane approach guys.

We feel it is misleading to tell people they can cut down on waste water by adding a second membrane. Here's why.

First - remember that what folks call "waste water" really would be better thought of as "flush water" in that this water serves the important purpose of internally flushing the surface of the semipermeable membrane to keep the membrane from fouling/scaling.

When you configure a system with two membranes in series (the waste from the first membrane going to the "in" port on the second membrane), for this discussion let's say it's two 75 gpd membranes, the system behaves like you have a single long (75 gpd x 2) 150 gpd membrane.

Now - if you use a proper flow restrictor, that is, one for a 150 gpd membrane, and have something near the factory spec water pressure and temperature, you'll have about a 4:1 waste to product ratio. Sounds familiar, right?

If however you don't change the flow restrictor - meaning you keep using the same restrictor you were using when you just had one 75 gpd membrane, then you'll see a waste to product ratio much lower than 4:1. But remember that the recommendation for a ~4:1 ratio comes from membrane manufacturers. They are telling you that you need about a 4:1 ratio to keep the membrane flushed and keep the membrane from fouling or building up scale. Run the system with a lower ratio and you will foul/scale the membrane(s) quicker than would have otherwise been the case.

Instead of adding a second membrane to lower that ratio, you could have just changed out your flow restrictor ($4) instead. This is a much less expensive approach to get you to the same endpoint in terms of saving on waste water.

Now, to confuse things just a bit. Filmtec specs call for the 4 to 1 ratio on the basis of assumptions about the water that will be supplied to the membrane. If you have very soft water you MAY be able to get a decent service life from the membrane running at a ratio lower than 4 to 1 (e.g., 3 to 1). Remember that the waste water from the first membrane is about 25% harder than your tap water.

Bottom line: If what you are after is reduced waste water, experiment with a different flow restrictor for $4 instead of messing around with a second membrane plumbed in series.

As a side note, you can also lower the ratio by increasing the pressure delivered to the membrane (with a booster pump), because flow restrictors are sized assuming you are providing factory spec conditions (50 psi and 77 degrees for Filmtec membranes). Increase the pressure and you'll drive more water through the membrane and viola - less waste water. But as mentioned above, if you do this (just like over-restricting a membrane) - the lower the waste to product ratio, the shorter the lifespan on the membrane.

Makes sense?

Russ
 
Actually yes lol, how do you feel about using a plastic valve instead of a flow restrictor to get your 4:1 ratio.
 
On commercial RO's where we're dealing with higher flows in the concentrate (waste water) line it's more practical. If you use an adjustable flow restrictor on the 150 gpd or less systems common in this hobby, you'll want to check/adjust them periodically. If you go this route, don't use a ball valve:


Instead go for a precise needle valve


Russ
 
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