If you have an iPhone, I would definitely get the Apex. Neptune (Apex) has an official app for the iPhone. It's awesome. Before, a random person made their app (Aquanotes), but the official one that came out is so much better. In app history, live monitoring graphs, controling outlets, programming outlets/profiles, and pretty much everything else you need.
I recommend the Apex unit, but both the Apex Jr. and Apex Lite come with the same network capabilities. There is an ethernet port on the controller. You can run an ethernet cable to your router, but I just use a tiny Netgear wireless adapter and it works great.
I keep quite a bit of money invested in sps corals, and if something is wrong, I would leave work immediately because the amount of money I would lose from a tank crash is far worse than any repercutions from leaving early. I have never had to leave though because the controller is programmed with failsafes just incase something extreme would happen. If anything is wrong with my tank, I immediately get both an email and a text message stating what the issue is, which is a great feature.
I love all the modules you can buy. I control my AI LEDs and Vortech MP40s straight from my phone because there are modules for them. My Apex controls: Vortech MP40s, AI LEDs, heater, kalk stirrer, fans, calcium reactor (Contols output of CO2 tank, makes sure I have the exact pH in my calcium reactor that I want), refugium LEDs, skimmer, AutoTopOff, feed cycles, ect.
I have 2 pH probes, one for tank, one for calcium reactor, Salinity probe, ORP probe, and 2 temp probes.
Float switches for ATO are very easy to connect/program as is everything else. It's not cheap, but is probably one of the best investments I have made.
Here's a picture inside my stand:
Note: My salinity is not this high. It is at 34 ppm. When I upgraded tanks, this probe was taken out of water and needs to be recalibrated. I have a bunch of pH calibration fluid, but ran out of salinity. You do need to calibrate every probe (except temp) when you switch tanks and the probe leaves water. pH is nighttime pH I just took the picture and lights do not come on for another 30min. pH is my tank pH. pH2 is my reactors pH. The display is nice and all and makes it easy to calibrate and setup network settings, but I monitor/control everything from my iPhone.
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