Help with silencing PVC drain under tank...

Vapour1ze

Vapour1ze

New member
So, I made a video to better explain my situation... I am basically wondering the easiest way I can quiet below my tank.

Check video for accurate description. :)
Cheers!

 
http://www.soundproofcow.com/Quiet-Wrap-Pipe-Soundproofing-Wrap.html

Quiet Wrap™ Pipe Soundproofing Wrap will significantly reduce noise emitted from waste water and drainage pipes. Quiet Wrap™ Pipe Soundproofing Wrap is an industrial grade barrier / foam composite manufactured using a 1/2 lb., high density sound barrier membrane, laminated to ¼ in. acoustic grade polyurethane foam with a “peel and place” adhesive backing. The Barrier layer blocks sounds commonly emitted from water running through pipes. The foam tackles the pipe noise two different ways. First, the foam isolates the barrier layer, which improves the noise blocking performance of the barrier layer. Second, the adhesive backed foam reduces vibration caused by the water running through the pipes. Reducing water pipe vibration will decrease the perceived noise. Quiet Wrap™ Pipe Soundproofing Wrap is easy to install and will work on any size PVC or cast iron waste water pipes. Quiet Wrap™ Pipe Soundproofing Wrap also quiets noisy air ducts common in HVAC applications.
Click to expand...

You could also try the cheaper insulation foam used on pipes. It will take some of the noise
 
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I would do a "poor man's herbie". Maybe run a 5/8" or 3/4" vinyl tube from upstairs to the basement sump, tie wrap it to the side of your existing pvc drain on the way down for support. Put a valve upstairs so you can control the flow with this new tube under your stand. Only way to do it, over the rim with a small "U" into the overflows built in. You want "most" of your overflow water volume to flow down this tube, with no air in it. Then, continue to use your existing pvc pipe overflows to take a tine"trickle" of the left over water. This will make it dead silent when you adjust it to the right amount of flow in your new vinyl tube. You will need to "Y" the vinyl tubes to each overflow. Then the worst part is to start the flow, go downstairs to the sump to start the siphon with a big "suck".

It's loud because you have air in it. You need another route for a large majority of the flow, it needs to be solid water the whole way down. No air. Only way to do it without cutting into your existing drains and adding another "sub sump" under your tank, which I personally wouldn't do. Since your existing drains are so big, no problem using a smaller tube to rely on. If it malfunctions, your existing drains will work how they do now, you'll hear it, go downstairs and restart the siphon again (and cut the flow a tiny bit then, losing siphon means it took in air".

Hope this made sense.
 
I know you don't want to redo plumbing but herbie was night/day difference with my dursos. Its the air in your pipes in the drain.
 
expo703 said:
I know you don't want to redo plumbing but herbie was night/day difference with my dursos. Its the air in your pipes in the drain.
Click to expand...

What if I just gate valved my drain pipe? I wouldn't have an emergency. But I don't right now either... Bad idea?
 
If you placed a valve. You would have to do the valve in the basement so the pipe above gets back pressure filling up the air in the pipe.
It will take some time to fine tune with out overfilling the tank. I saw a tank this weekend . Had an amazing set up.
[MENTION=3095]Crued[/MENTION] his is valved at the basement as well. He told me it also took time to fine tune but now works great.
 
#theMatrix said:
If you placed a valve. You would have to do the valve in the basement so the pipe above gets back pressure filling up the air in the pipe.
It will take some time to fine tune with out overfilling the tank. I saw a tank this weekend . Had an amazing set up.
[MENTION=3095]Crued[/MENTION] his is valved at the basement as well. He told me it also took time to fine tune but now works great.
Click to expand...

Thanks dude! Yes, I have a ball valve in my basement which basically causes a water "backup" to the durso in the overflow so that it's not all filled with air. As mentioned, the air is the issue, so if you fill the pipe with water and control the flow, no air, no noise. This is not without risk however. You could get something stuck in that pipe that causes the flow to greatly be reduced and then your return water could overflow the tank. My drain is 2" and flows a long way so there is "a lot" of pressure there. I also use an intake screen on the durso. As a final measure, when I do water changes, I open up the ball valve to clean it all out, and then reset it to a mark on the handle and valve.
 
This sounds great!
For this of us with controllers (I.e. Apex) a good fail safe might be to put a float in the DT's overflow box...so if/when a clog creates a backup it could trigger an alarm/txt and turn off the return pump. Hmm


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