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What does "ok parameters" mean to you? The first step is to eliminate all of the easy variables, i.e. temp, salinity, nitrate, phosphate, calcium and alkalinity. It also looks like your rock isn't really healthy live rock to begin with (from what we can see in the pics). No coralline algae or...

nice music :)

Ammonia test kits test either free ammonia or total ammonia. That might account for the difference, but also those alert badges are almost worthless. A couple of other possibilities. Since you are actually dosing ammonia, are you testing at the same time interval after dosing? And the amount of...

Hobbyist test kits are notoriously unreliable. I would just wait until your ammonia tests 0, but if you plan to cycle for 3 months you shouldn't have any problems.

Never had a Kessil, but I would just in general be careful with how much light you put in the tank. A 21g is relatively small, and LEDs can be deceptively powerful, i.e. they look normal from the side but are actually putting out very high PAR underneath. Your model has a 40w max, which is a lot...

Now that you have described what to look for in the pics, I don't think it's a standard fish fluke. Those are very difficult to see on the body of the fish. Generally all you see is cloudiness from the fish's slime coat. Is the white part protruding from the fish? It could be a hookworm.

That sounds like a good plan

Clean slate is what muriatic acid does. One step. It's also probably unrelated to the algae problem you had in your tank. You can start with clean rock and develop an algae problem. Dealing with an algae outbreak is one of the hardest things to do in the hobby, actually. Anything from lights to...

Terrible pics but likely not a fluke. If it's on the eye it's probably a bacterial or fungal infection. If it's on the side of the fish it could be that or lymphcystis, which is related to the herpes virus for fishies. Lymph is a virus, so not treatable, but also rarely fatal. If you can catch...

Lanthanum chloride precipitates phosphates. It can be useful when you have a high biological load in a tank and can't get your PO4 down, sort of like GFO but works a little different. Muriatic acid will dissolve all organic compounds on the rock, period. It's also cheaper than lanthanum chloride.

Bleach leaves a residue BTW, especially in porous material

If you want completely inert rock, go to the paint department of Menards and pick up a jug of muriatic acid. Cover rock in hot water, preferably outside, and then throw the acid in. 1-2 hours is usually enough. Take the rock out, dump the water, and let the rock dry out. You probably want to...

The setup described above is a pretty good one. For small reef fishes you could even just use a sponge filter running on an air pump. For larger fishes like tangs and angels a cheap hang on back skimmer is handy. Generally, you should keep the QT running (and thus cycled) through the stocking...

You stepping into the matrix with the algae question in your first post. Need water chemistry parameters and a description of filtration and lighting.

cabinet lighting is under rated