Battling Cyano...

DKST227

Member
It's fun. I'm trying to rid my tank of a Cyano outbreak without using chemicals for the past couple weeks. My main concern with chemicals is killing off beneficial bacteria or anything else when using them. Additionally - I want to find the root of the issue and not use chemicals for a few days and have the Cyano return.

A little background - I am running a 210g mixed reef. It was officially launched about 3 years ago from my 75g but it has been moved several times. So - the 210 has been in its current place for almost 1 year which obviously causes some new tank syndrome from moving it (a bit of cycling). Recently I added a few fish and perhaps that threw the bioload off causing this outbreak since I was intentionally over feeding with the new fish.

My stats are below:
Salinity: 1.024
PH: 8.2
Mag: 1450
Alk: 10.9 dKH
Calcium: 480 ppm
Nitrate: 1 ppm
Phosphate: 0 ppm
Temp: 75
No ammonia

For the past two weeks I have been doing 15% water changes every few days while brushing the rocks off and sucking out the cyano during the water changes. I added an additional power head for more water movement as well. I seem to be managing the Cyano level but not reducing it. It comes back daily and it is irritating some corals. Any other ideas before I take the plunge in Cyano Rx or Chemiclean?
 

Cubano32

Premium member
I was in the same situation as you 3 weeks ago and I started dosing MicroBacter 7 and MicroBacter Clean and within 2 weeks time of dosing everyday it started going away I highly suggest looking it up and giving it a shot..I didn't do any blackout period or didn't adjust my feeding or cut back on light schedule all I did was turn my skimmer off for about 4 hours after dosing it then turn it back on

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Cubano32

Premium member
Good thing about MicroBacter clean and 7 is that they are both beneficial bacteria which help target and break down the cyano and diatom in the tank and when I say my tank was bad it was bad ...here are some pics and the last pic is of a few days ago sandbed white again


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sk8elenex92

Premium member
Check your ATO reservoir. After testing it with the TDS meter is was like 800+. My brute container can hold the water for 2 weeks and it reads 0 the whole time. Only after a few days in the ATO reservoir it would read crazy high.

In my previous tanks I would always notice cyano when I had super low nutrients.
 

DKST227

Member
Check your ATO reservoir. After testing it with the TDS meter is was like 800+. My brute container can hold the water for 2 weeks and it reads 0 the whole time. Only after a few days in the ATO reservoir it would read crazy high.

In my previous tanks I would always notice cyano when I had super low nutrients.
Weird enough my ATO container was reading high even though I test the water that goes in. I replaced the container with a new one so I'm sure it will help the situation.
 

DKST227

Member
Good thing about MicroBacter clean and 7 is that they are both beneficial bacteria which help target and break down the cyano and diatom in the tank and when I say my tank was bad it was bad ...here are some pics and the last pic is of a few days ago sandbed white again


Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
Isn't the MicroBacter for starting new tanks or not necessarily?
 

Sawdonkey

Premium member
Check your ATO reservoir. After testing it with the TDS meter is was like 800+. My brute container can hold the water for 2 weeks and it reads 0 the whole time. Only after a few days in the ATO reservoir it would read crazy high.

In my previous tanks I would always notice cyano when I had super low nutrients.
Was your container leaching something?
 

Sawdonkey

Premium member
I never had much luck with Microbacter7. Didn’t notice a change. Chemiclean on the other hand knocked my cyano out with no issues. I know it doesn’t solve your underlying issue, but it will get you through the uglies. I’ve used it a few times over the years.

I think time is the key to your underlying issues.
 

DKST227

Member
Was your container leaching something?
I don’t think so. I think it just had some of my dosing chemicals in there by me being sloppy was all. But to be safe I cleared it and I’m feeding my ato from a 5 gallon jug to eliminate any potential issues.
 

oceanfreak09

Active member
Just wondering why you run your temp so low? At that temp I would think that if you had a problem with a heater that it would become dangerously low so quickly. As far the cyano I would recommend not scrubbing the rocks and letting it just run its course. Maybe move corals that are being affected to a new place.


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Deezill

Premium member
Good thing about MicroBacter clean and 7 is that they are both beneficial bacteria which help target and break down the cyano and diatom in the tank and when I say my tank was bad it was bad ...here are some pics and the last pic is of a few days ago sandbed white again


Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
When using the MB7 did you turn off skimming and other filtration? I use it too and it does help with the brown stuff. However, for Cyano, I use Chemiclean to knock it out of the park.
Let me know about turning off filtration when using MB7. I hate having to turn off filtration for four hours but thats what the instructions tell me to do.
 

Cubano32

Premium member
When using the MB7 did you turn off skimming and other filtration? I use it too and it does help with the brown stuff. However, for Cyano, I use Chemiclean to knock it out of the park.
Let me know about turning off filtration when using MB7. I hate having to turn off filtration for four hours but thats what the instructions tell me to do.
I only turn off my skimmer that's all

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DKST227

Member
Just wondering why you run your temp so low? At that temp I would think that if you had a problem with a heater that it would become dangerously low so quickly. As far the cyano I would recommend not scrubbing the rocks and letting it just run its course. Maybe move corals that are being affected to a new place.


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I’ve always kept a temp around 75. I used to have a blue dot jaw fish for a couple years and ran the temp on the lower end of the reef spectrum for that reason. Never changed it I guess. What do most people run, 78? Also - I run two heaters that can back each other up if needed for a little safety from a failure.
 

coral49

Premium member
Use a UV.. it will knock it out in about a week. Then no chemical games. Doesn't have to be a monster one to do the trick
 

oceanfreak09

Active member
I’ve always kept a temp around 75. I used to have a blue dot jaw fish for a couple years and ran the temp on the lower end of the reef spectrum for that reason. Never changed it I guess. What do most people run, 78? Also - I run two heaters that can back each other up if needed for a little safety from a failure.
Yeah I believe between 78 and 80 is what i see most. I run mine at 79.
glad to hear you are running multiple heaters. Always extra insurance when doing that. But also wanted to point out that say there was a power outage you may have a longer window before things go south.

I do think running low temperatures are good when tanks are becoming hot because of hot days and no air-conditioning wether it be by choice or a power outage.


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wrasse

Member
Check your ATO reservoir. After testing it with the TDS meter is was like 800+. My brute container can hold the water for 2 weeks and it reads 0 the whole time. Only after a few days in the ATO reservoir it would read crazy high.

In my previous tanks I would always notice cyano when I had super low nutrients.
I had a similar issue. I changed my ATO container so as to let in as little outside air as possible. just a place for water in and water out. The ATO container a a plastic dog food container. No more slimy water. I may be mistaken, but I think the RO/DI water may attract dust.
 
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