Custom Led Setup help needed

Smith11

New member
so im putting in my order for new leds. Its the 24 led solderless kit from Rapid Led.
I want to have
10 RB
8 CW
2 Red orange
2 cyan
2 green

but im not sure if the drivers that come with the kit are ok for these leds? help please.
 
How large of an aquarium is this going over?
BTW there are no solderless Red/ Orange..... And your ratio between the RB and the CW is off unless you want a "whiter" look to it. Generally the ratio is 2:1 RB/ CW, Also Im not sure if you are aware Cyan is pretty much green.
 
yeah i want a whiter color, not a fan of tanks that are too blue. I meant the XP-E red cree sorry, so will this be driver wise?
 
RB-1500mA Max
CW- 1500 mA Max
Cyan- 1000 mA Max
Green- 1000 mA Max
Red- 700 mA Max

The only issue I see is trying to divide up your colors so it doesnt look "off" The limiting factor are the Reds @ 700 mA, meaning, when you place any others in the string you can only run them @ 700 mA or less. This is not a bad thing though, I do not run my LEDs "full" power anyway. The question is how to divide them up like I said so the colors are tunable to the corals liking but yet still look good to your eyes. Also are you going dimmable or just on/off?
 
i want it to be two different pendants cuz its a 46 bowfront and i need one on each side of the brace
 
So what are the dimensions of your mounts going to be?

And honestly Id go dimmable for the difference in pricing, that way you can dial in the color properly. That way if you ever decide to use a controller (assuming you do not now) it would be an easy set up to connect and allow the dawn to dusk control.
 
Looking at the recommended mA for running the Cyan and Green you would need to use the Mean Well LPC-35-700 constant current drivers. If it were me and since Rapid knows their products better than I, I would shoot them an E-mail. They respond pretty quickly from my experience and are great help regarding questions like this.
The way I see it though, you will have to mix the strings of LEDs with different colors. The Cyan and Green max out at 1000mA, the other drivers are constant current @ 1050mA It might (most likely would be) be a risk if you were to run those at the higher mA thus burning up the LEDs.
 
If I recall correctly there is a minimum for how many LEDs per string are needed. RapidLED has great customer service, I think we traded over 2 dozen emails when I was designing my build. I think you should seriously consider Blue and Neutral/Warm White as they fill in a big part of the spectrum that corals use and get rid of cyan,green, and red (or reduce the number). I put my whites on one string, RB on the next and green red and blue on the last. If you don't get a dimmer then you need to make sure you get the color ratio just the way you like it as you can't tweak it. If I only had 24 LEDs to work with I would go:

10 RB
4 Blue
6 CW
4 WW or NW

The green and red would be nice, but don't really add much spectrum for the coral and the reds supposedly increase algae growth. I might add a true violet as it hits the bottom of the spectrum for corals. I love my rapid LEDs, but if you aren't going dimmable I would look into the PAR38 bulbs (from Rapid or Coralcompulsion). Easier to setup, move, and cheaper. GL.
 
Looking at the recommended mA for running the Cyan and Green you would need to use the Mean Well LPC-35-700 constant current drivers. If it were me and since Rapid knows their products better than I, I would shoot them an E-mail. They respond pretty quickly from my experience and are great help regarding questions like this.
The way I see it though, you will have to mix the strings of LEDs with different colors. The Cyan and Green max out at 1000mA, the other drivers are constant current @ 1050mA It might (most likely would be) be a risk if you were to run those at the higher mA thus burning up the LEDs.

Alright im gonna shoot them an email
 
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