Frag Tank Build

C

chiblackhawks4

Member
Ok so I have been wanting a frag tank for my office and I found one! Got a good deal on the tank and stand. The tank is an acrylic 2x2x10 Im not sure on the exact gallon measure. Anyone know off the top of their head? It is drilled with a 3/4 return and 1" overflow. I just bought a brand new 10 gallon Im going to use as a sump. That is where I sit now. Im looking for recommendations as far as return pumps and how I should plumb PVC Vs. soft tubing, skimmer, light (for sure LED) and so on and so forth. Ill work on some pics in a minute.
 
Return pump higher in gph than a mag 5 pump IMO..

Currently running a mag 5 with 2 3/4 returns and 1.25 drain on a 18x18x8 frag tank.. Flow is great!!!
 
chiblackhawks4 said:
Ok so I have been wanting a frag tank for my office and I found one! Got a good deal on the tank and stand. The tank is an acrylic 2x2x10 Im not sure on the exact gallon measure. Anyone know off the top of their head? It is drilled with a 3/4 return and 1" overflow. I just bought a brand new 10 gallon Im going to use as a sump. That is where I sit now. Im looking for recommendations as far as return pumps and how I should plumb PVC Vs. soft tubing, skimmer, light (for sure LED) and so on and so forth. Ill work on some pics in a minute.
Click to expand...

thats 25 gallons
http://www.greertank.com/tankcalc.htm
 
Awesome thanks for the gallon info! Ice- That looks like one heck of a deal! Might just have to jump on it. Anyone have a suggestion for a skimmer for this set up? I have the 10 gallon sump as I mentioned so kind of limited space, however I havent put in my baffles yet to split the sump so any configurations are possible!
 
Ok so Im having some trouble figuring out how to plumb my return through my overflow. I have always had an over-the-top return and have never dealt with one that goes through a bulkhead through the overflow if that makes sense. I have attached some pics of where the return is coming from. Basically what I am wondering is how I bridge the gap between the bulkhead drilled into the bottom of the tank and the bulkhead drilled into the overflow. The return bulkhead drilled into the bottom is 3/4" and Im assuming the one drilled into the overflow is also, however, it is threadless on the inside unlike the one drilled into the bottom. If anyone knows what I should do here or has a suggestion I would appreciate any help. View attachment 14190View attachment 14191
 
I think I understand your question. Google "Durso stand pipe/drain" or "Herbie drain". I think you basically just want the pipe coming up from the bottom to go into a T on its side so that you connect into the bottom of the T with your return into the tank and the vertical open end of the t is capped with a little hole in it or some air line so you can tune it (or a longer piece of PVC that can be tuned). Can't go wrong with an Eheim or a MAG 5 or bigger. Check out this skimmer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Factory-dir...Fish_Filters&hash=item2c67d71916#ht_561wt_908
I use it on my 45. it's pretty touchy at first, but it's a little beast in a 10g sump. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Herbie- Thank you for your help and suggestions the durso is a good idea i think I am just going to go with a standard PVC drain, the tank is in my office and the noise level isnt a factor. The question I had was with my return not the drain. I cant figure out how to piece together something that will make the "L" shape I need for the return to flow back into the main tank. I ended up buying a quiet one 2200 for the return. I like that skimmer and have been seeing a lot of good reviews on it and for the price will more than likely be the skimmer I go with.


fwadiver- Can you expand on "Loc-Line" im not entirely sure what you mean.
 
Ok so I just ordered some loc line stuff, an elbow, the female ball valve, a male NPT connector and some segments to connect. Hopefully this goes together smoothly when they arrive. Thanks for the input guys.
 
chiblackhawks4 said:
Ok so I just ordered some loc line stuff, an elbow, the female ball valve, a male NPT connector and some segments to connect. Hopefully this goes together smoothly when they arrive. Thanks for the input guys.
Click to expand...

you might want to consider a nozzle or duckbill on the end to get a little more distance or efficiency out of your flow.
 
Ya I considered that but then I noticed the bulkhead that empties into the tank doesnt seem to have anywhere to connect a nozzle or duckbill and to be honest I dont think ill need one.
 
chiblackhawks4 said:
Ya I considered that but then I noticed the bulkhead that empties into the tank doesnt seem to have anywhere to connect a nozzle or duckbill and to be honest I dont think ill need one.
Click to expand...

i'm sure you can go without, but there is probably a slip fitting for that bulkhead that converts to loc-line.
 
you might actually have to take out that bulkhead for the return if you plan to run lockline from the vertical PVC right into that lockline elbow. The other choice is to use just PVC behind the bulkhead and go into loc-line after. I hope that doesn't mess up your order, but loc-line won't fit through that bulkhead unless you have the fitings for it. (I may also not be understanding any of this). Anyone else see what I am saying?
 
I think I kind of get what youre saying. However, I was never planning on using PVC for the return at all in the overflow box I was going to use all loc-line. I bought the female valve adapter to put on the bulk head (inside overflow box) that is drilled into the side/wall of the overflow I.E. where the water exits the return. I was going to then connect the 90 loc line elbow to the female valve adapter. I was then going to use a few segments to connect that to the male NPT connector that I bought to connect to the bulkhead that is drilled into the bottom of the tank. I thought this would work? Does anyone see a problem with my plan? Am I missing something? Sorry if that is confusing.
 
it will just be way more expensive and really hard to do. Loc-Line is a serious pain in the butt to connect unless you can get directly over it with even weight (or get the tool) and each piece is a few dollars. if you just use PVC to connect the bottom hole to the hole in the overflow box you can then just go on with loc-line from there. A regular 3/4 male slip adapter can convert the bulkhead to work with the female loc-line adapter you got. Trying to make loc-line attach in the confines of an overflow doesn't sound like an easy task to me (uless you can assemble everything prior to putting it the overflow). I'm probably just overthinking it.
 
No you make some very valid points. I just fiddled with the overflow a bit and it was tight. I had the same thought as you, construct first then place (hopefully only needing two connections once in overflow). THEN I had a thought: The male adapter that goes into the bottom of the tank screws in so there wouldnt and shouldnt be too much of a struggle (fingers crossed) leaving only the top female to 90 degree connection which may prove difficult but also seems reasonably possible. I see your point with the PVC and thatll be the back up plan seeing as how I already ordered the loc line in my excitement! Not too upset about it tho only cost 25 bucks shipped so nothing too major.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top