Need Help on my 100 Gallon Build - Overflow

zportell

zportell

Member
Hi CR - I am needing some help for my build. I have 5 holes drilled in the back of my 100 gallon DT. 3 are being used as drains via overflow box (top center) and the 2 most outer holes will be a Closed Loop System. My return line is going to be an over the top U-Tube I purchased from MDepot so I can prevent a syphon, incase of a power outage.

My main concern for this build is the drains. I was going to use the Beananimal design because it's supposed to be "completely quiet". However after I dry plumbed the PVC, the PVC extracted too far out of the back side of the tank and wouldn't fit in the designated display spot in my house. Now what do I do...

As you can see in the pictures, I returned all PVC to hardware store and purchased 1" tubing and necessary plumbing parts to fit bulkheads. My drain sizes are 1" and 3/4" (1" (left/right) and 3/4" (center)). How do I "recreate" the beananimal design using tubing? Is this necessary? and is this even possible?

I want to make sure it's as quite as possible as it's going near my family room where we spend most of our time watching TV, and playing with our children. I don't want it to sound like a toilet is flushing 500+ gallons per hour.

And just for reference, My return pump is a Triton 4 which is rated at 1050gph. I have it on my 40 DT right now and will move it over when I finish the build. The CLS, I haven't decided on the pump yet, but was thinking about a pump that will move another 1000+/ gph at 3" head loss. Should be plenty of flow to keep detritus and settlements down to a minimum.

View attachment 5622View attachment 5623
 
lunacris

lunacris

Active member
Ok so i dont see a closed loop system unless the two outer holes are feeding one another one in and one out if its a closed loop there is no worry for when power shut off cause that water remains in the cloaed loop . second bean might work if you have something to restrict the flow of the full siphon. if not it will be loud. i dont see a place where the air hose is for the bean on that plumbing ethier. also id use the 3/4 for the last fail safe incase of a clog just me tho hope it helped looking foward to hearing if i missed anything
 
yogoshio

yogoshio

New member
First off, drill a return, and just use a check-valve to stop backflow. It's much cleaner looking and actually safer than a drill hole in a U-tube, and doesn't reduce flow output.

Second, ask luncris about the bean animal. From what I've seen, you're missing arilines that will reduce noise and more, but he's the expert.

Third, you want flow from within the tank, not from the sump. The sump turnover should only be roughly 4x tank volume, 7x at max. Any more than that and water is passing too quickly past skimmers, fuge area, and reactors. You want as much flow as possible in the DT, but the return pump isn't meant for flow inside the tank, that's what the closed loop is for. I'd say either turn down the pump you have, or get a mag 7 or something like it. For the closed loop, you could even do more than just 1000 gph. Maybe a mag12? More flow, not much more money. Amazon has them cheapest around. For my 110, I'm using a reeflo dart which is 3600 gph, but I have 2 inlets and 8 returns plumbed.

Next, DO NOT use that tubing for your plumbing. It doesn't seal well, and unless you're gluing it, it will clog, pinch, and be impossbile to clean. If you're going to soft plumb, get somethign sturdier, and not clear. You should use braided nylon at least, if not the flexible pvc. Or hard plumb it, and it'll be even better. Especially for the closed loop, if it's not plumbed properly, the tubing WILL fly off and water will be everywhere.

You should be able to find 90 degree elbows that fit in those spaces. I have 3" on the back of my tank and I have hard-plumbed pvc that fits... It shouldn't take up any more back space than what you have now.
 
Tethered_Limbs

Tethered_Limbs

Active member
the airline is to start a suction on the 2nd fail safe.. should be mounted just above where the waterline normally sits.
 
zportell

zportell

Member
I understand how the BeanAnimal works, as I had it plumbed earlier today. However, I then realized it stuck out of the back of the tank a good 8 inches. That is too far for it to stick out as it increases the systems depth from 22 inches to 30 inches. So what I was looking to do is somehow create a "BeanAnimal" type system using flex.. Or something else other than a BeanAnimal that is just as quiet.. Right now, I am looking to remove as much noise pollution from the drain as possible.

Am I thinking wrong as having the 1" bulkheads as gravity fed drains and the 3/4" bulkhead as a emergency?? This whole plumbing thing is new to me and I can't afford to waste money on this project as it's going to eat my wallet when I start stocking it!


In my 40 DT right now, I don't have bulkheads and the plumbing I made is relatively quiet.
View attachment 5624
 
Tethered_Limbs

Tethered_Limbs

Active member
my middle bulkhead is a full siphon tuned down with a valve so that the first failsafe with just barely trickles water. so it is silent. the third bulkhead has the upturned elbow.
 
lunacris

lunacris

Active member
Why put valves on the back side it can be done with valves by the sump that where mine are at i k ow why because thats what it says to do but mine works just the same at the sump i used 1 1/2 and it sticks out 4inches on the return side and 5 inches on the plumbing side but that was done intentionally because of a outlet and window

Not that its gonna help you to know what i did id take the plumbing to above the sump and convert to pvc with valves put valvea on all three to be safe for later work on sump jmo tho
 
zportell

zportell

Member
Yogo, can you post a picture of what your plumbing looks like? I am interested in a hard plumb rather than tube as I know it gives better results, but I can't have the plumbing extending more than 4-5 inches off the backside of the tank. I am curious to see your setup.
 
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