Noah's Ark

jm23

jm23

Active member
Well just like Noah I had a great flood, ie AEFW, high nitrates, and Ich. So, I saved what coral I could and started over with new rock and new sand and put all my corals into a QT. I soaked my tanks in vinegar (I think it took 14 gallons from Sam's Club to get the coralline algae to come off) and scrubbed them clean.




All the corals were dipped in Coral RX, Revive, and Bayer (depending on the type of coral) once a week for three weeks. The SPS got a couple extra dips to make sure no AEFW was left. I ordered my rock from reefcleaners and I must say that it is the cleanest dry rock available, I never had an algae outbreak like the last time I started with used dry rock.

All my fish were put into a QT and I used the Tank Transfer Method (TTM) to get rid of the Ich. Of course right before I tore the tank down to restart I walked into Reefwise for the first time, big mistake, as I walked out with a pair of Potters Angelfish.


All the coral are back in the DT and FT now and adjusting fine. Thanks to Adam at Battlecorals, my tank is again fully stocked with SPS (pictures to come as they color back up from being dipped and placed in a new tank).

Hopefully this restart will solve the issues I faced before and my tank will thrive. I will post some more pictures of some upgrades I made and the corals as they color back up in the coming weeks.
 
Last edited:
MMreef

MMreef

Active member
Sometimes it is just best to start over , I am sure your new tank will be great. Good luck! Keep posting updates :)
 
jm23

jm23

Active member
Sense of nature said:
Good luck & love the pair of Potters, are they a bonded pair?
I have 1 & would like another, but not sure on compatibility on multples
Click to expand...
Yes, I bought them as a bonded pair. I know even when you are able to determine the sex of the fish that they won't always pair up, so I guess that is a risk you have to weigh.
 
jm23

jm23

Active member
Here are a few practice photos with the new camera (still figuring it out):







 
Last edited:
jm23

jm23

Active member
Jimbojames said:
Nice pictures, really like the one of the nem. What type of camera and lens?
Click to expand...
It is a Nikon DSLR (let's just say its an upgrade from my 10 year old D70). The lens is a variable zoom lens, but I found out today that my melves reef look down box won't let me fully zoom in, I need to drill another hole higher up.
 
jm23

jm23

Active member
Here is an updated FTS (I really need to figure out how to stitch together a panorama for a better quality pic):






 
jm23

jm23

Active member
Here is a couple photos of the RapidLED solderless kit:





I am replacing the red and green with UV and I am taking out 24 Cool White LEDs from the three fixtures and replacing them with 12 Warm White and 12 Neutral White LEDs. I found the Neutral and Warm White don't add too much of a yellow look to the tank and the coloration my corals get in my FT underneath the 1:1:1 (CW:WW:NW) is much better then all CW. I am curious about the UV and whether it will truly help with coral coloration, but as I am adding NW and WW, I no longer really need the Green or Red as those aspects of the spectrum are in the WW and NW LEDs.
 
S

Seadub

New member
Jon - what is your blue to white ratio? I just switched to primarily NW on my IT2040 and it made a noticeable difference in the yellow hue. I took out the couple of uv I had and replaced them more violets. I still have to switch out the companion fixture so I can see them side by side, the new configuration seems to have a crisper look now.
 
jm23

jm23

Active member
Seadub said:
Jon - what is your blue to white ratio? I just switched to primarily NW on my IT2040 and it made a noticeable difference in the yellow hue. I took out the couple of uv I had and replaced them more violets. I still have to switch out the companion fixture so I can see them side by side, the new configuration seems to have a crisper look now.
Click to expand...
On my DT (per fixture):
12 Royal Blue
12 Cool White (Replacing 8 Cool Whites with 4 NW and 4 WW)
8 Blue
2 Red (Replacing with UV)
2 Green (Replacing with UV)

On my FT (per fixture):
6 Royal Blue
4 Cool White
4 Neutral White
4 Warm White
4 Blue
1 Red (Replacing with UV)
1 Green (Replacing with UV)

I run my Royal Blues and Blues a lot higher than I do my whites, which helps with the color temp of the tank. Cool Whites look better then Warm/Neutral, but not enough to outweigh the benefit of the additional coloration of the coral.
 
jm23

jm23

Active member
Turned the camera on manual mode and was able to get some better shots, but still need to work on focal plane and iso issues.






 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top