Setting up a frag tank

[Cub21rak]

What's you opinion of items needed for a frag tank.
Never done one and getting ready to try. Prob gunna start with a 20L. I also will be using a reef radiance dm-155e.
Main growth will be zoas. Maybe expand into lps maybe. Thinking just egg crate and corals and maybe couple small fish. Will it go through a cycle? Would it be fine with just a hob filter?

 

[TangPolice]

this is going to be an interesting and very cool thread .GL
Bob





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[SkullV]

My opinion of a frag tank, especially for zoas is ultra clean and ultra simple. This is mine:

It is all DIY, but the equipment list is:

• 7.5g Deep Blue Cube
• Custom Spectrum Coral Compulsion Par38
• DIY False Wall
• DIY K1 Chamber
• Bottom Return using Hydor Pico Evolution 1200 (300gph)
• Koralia Evolution Nano 425
• Eheim Jager 50w Heater
• Hydor Smart Level ATO w/Aqualifter

The egg crate is supported with egg crate feet and the rock underneath provides biological filtration and a hiding spot for the six line wrasse. The top rack is a black rock reef magnetic rack. Only the bottom egg crate feet are glued in so it is extremely easy to remove everything for cleaning/dipping if necessary.

I did the return from the bottom so I can turn off the Koralia, still have turnover and coral movement, but have a glasslike top down. Coral movement during top down viewing makes a ton of difference.

Good luck!

 

[Irsug1]

Possibly a cycle. I have lr and NO fish, just cuc. No filter.

 

[Joe5688]

Can u completely replace lr with k1? My lr on my bare bottom traps a Ton of detritusand I'm thinking about pulling it out and replacing with k 1

 

[SkullV]

Can u completely replace lr with k1? My lr on my bare bottom traps a Ton of detritusand I'm thinking about pulling it out and replacing with k 1

You can to an extent. Many people don't realize that live rock provides a home for aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria. The anaerobic bacteria actually break down nitrate as well. K1 will only provide a home for aerobic bacteria. Not a problem with regular water changes though, especially in a small tank.

 

[TangPolice]

Can u completely replace lr with k1? My lr on my bare bottom traps a Ton of detritusand I'm thinking about pulling it out and replacing with k 1

Aggitate/tumble the K1 works wonders
Bob



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[Irsug1]

Use a combination. Use small rocks to prop up the bigger rocks for less build up of det.

 

[ultimatemj]

Not trying to be a fanboy, just sharing my experience replacing bioballs with Seachem Matrix. I am now using the "Pond matrix" in a wet/dry filter and with no other "nitrate reducing activities" (besides 10% water changes weekly) have seen my nitrates steadily drop from well over ~160 to somewhere between 10 and 20 in just 2 months.

From their marketing copy

"Each liter of Matrix™ provides as much surface (>~700 m2) as 170 liters of plastic balls! Plastic bio-materials provide only external surface area, whereas Matrix™ provides both external and internal macroporous surface area. These macropores are ideally sized for the support of nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria. This allows Matrix™, unlike other forms of biomedia, to remove nitrate along with ammonia and nitrite, simultaneously and in the same filter."

Best I can tell Secahem Matrix, Eheim SubstratPro,and JBL MicroMec are the only products "finishing the nitrate cycle" by supporting anaerobic bacteria. And the main reason to use them over "plain ol rock" is the increased surfcae area..."more bang for the buck" so to speak. I think you could forgo "live rock" all together and just use this stuff....which would fit with the "clean frag tank" your working on.

Still would need to seed it...

 

[wld1783]

You can to an extent. Many people don't realize that live rock provides a home for aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria. The anaerobic bacteria actually break down nitrate as well. K1 will only provide a home for aerobic bacteria. Not a problem with regular water changes though, especially in a small tank.

+1

The more live rock the more pods, critters and their eggs to feed your coral.

Also choose your light carefully to optimize growth...

Bridgelux no longer makes the LEDs in the reef radiance dm-155...There will be a high probability they are knockoffs as the fixture is made in China.

The primary growth spectrum is 420-460nm...I prefer the Cree XT-E 450nm Royal Blue as it provides the most grow bang for the buck (cost and electricity).

The Cree Cool White also offers a better full spectrum mid range.

Along with LR & Lights flow is huge as large soft alternating flow is best.

Of course water quality and huge skimming for SPS as you dont want nuisance algae on your plugs (The right lighting will also minimize nuisance algae)...

Bill