Sump plan help

  • Thread starter Thread starter opie77
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You do it first, LOL.

And T-off the drain and throttle the fuge side back to about 1/3. That'll be plenty to start and you can mess with it as you see fit afterwards. If you feed it from the skimmer or the return pump it'll reduce your fuge's efficiency.
 
You do it first, LOL.

And T-off the drain and throttle the fuge side back to about 1/3. That'll be plenty to start and you can mess with it as you see fit afterwards. If you feed it from the skimmer or the return pump it'll reduce your fuge's efficiency.

So let me get this straight... So if I feed from my skimmer or using the return pump into my fuge isn't affective?

I really don't see the skimmer sucking all the bad out that fast.. IMO the fuge will still get fed regardless going skimmer> fuge or using the return pump
 
So let me get this straight... So if I feed from my skimmer or using the return pump into my fuge isn't affective?

I really don't see the skimmer sucking all the bad out that fast.. IMO the fuge will still get fed regardless going skimmer> fuge or using the return pump

+1 if skimmers were that efficient no one would need to worry about water changes even.
 
So let me get this straight... So if I feed from my skimmer or using the return pump into my fuge isn't affective?

I really don't see the skimmer sucking all the bad out that fast.. IMO the fuge will still get fed regardless going skimmer> fuge or using the return pump

I said reduce efficiency, not be useless. Obviously the skimmer doesn't pull everything on the first try, but nutrient rich water being fed to a low flow fuge will be more beneficial than being fed from pre-skimmed water.
 
Great! Put the wrong baffle in first then. Anyone with 11" fingers out there?!?!

Thats what I was thinking yogo.
 
I said reduce efficiency, not be useless. Obviously the skimmer doesn't pull everything on the first try, but nutrient rich water being fed to a low flow fuge will be more beneficial than being fed from pre-skimmed water.

I would rather have some what clean water go through my fuge than have unwanted things settle and have to clean later.. But it really doesn't matter either way will work ;)
 
Great! Put the wrong baffle in first then. Anyone with 11" fingers out there?!?!

Thats what I was thinking yogo.
 
lol, Sorry dude. I should've mentioned it in my earlier recommendations. I did the same stupid thing too....
 
udygygyv.jpg

This my 40 gallon breeder for my 120

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Thanks spoofer. Im guessing your lines go ret/drain/drain/ret?

Are the drains ball valved for sump removal? I see your return in wide open and fuge feed is 1/4 open. Right?
 
Yes all around, the ball valves and unions make it easy to access, maintenance and control flow. It's hard to see but in addition to the left drain there is a gate valve and the stand pipes are staggered by a inch so the plumbing can be dialed in to be whisper quiet.

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I also should note I originally used a mag 18 as many had recommended but it was just to much, tried a mag 12 and it was better but a mag 9.5 is spot on for the flow I wanted.

Good luck with the build

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asuguhes.jpg


+1 Which this is why this system was plumped this way to have reactors down the road and to feed the fuge.. The pump was over strong in gph on a 150gal tank but worth it IMO.. Nothing a valve can't fix if to strong ;)

What in the?! Using my system without permission!!!! LOL

Dre plumbed my setup and it is perfect! I am doing just what you are trying to do on a 150G..

Drain (Skimmer, pH Probe, Temp Probe) -> Over, Under, Over Baffles -> Return (Heater) -> Fuge

I have Anthony from NanoSeaCreations cut me acryclic and he sold me the 40B at $40 as well, so basically a fully functioning sump for a GREAT price.

One of the best things we did on my plumbing was having two ball valves plumbed into the return. I now run Carbon\GFO dual reactor from BRS with barely opening one of the valves. I love it, and no external pumps needed! I might do a Chaeto reactor actually and use the other ball valve. Like Dre said, the return I have is WAY over-powered, but when I add a reactor, I open it a little bit more, and no problems there.

My sump is a 40B, acrylic baffles, and while the fuge bows a tiny bit, I used a GENEROUS amount of silicone to the point where it's not pretty to look at, but it's not going anywhere. The water in the return will push back against the fuge and only part of it is pushing one way.
 
So which design is best? Center return,split flow, or rt/lt hand return full flow. It seems I could use a smaller return pump with a rt/lt return. Am I reading this correctly? Most of the fuges I have seen are not center return. Seems no one really knows the answer. I did it because the design is very clean with my sump directly behind the tank. I have two very short drains. I just would like to know if this was the right choice. I am running a mag12 at 4' head.
 
So which design is best? Center return,split flow, or rt/lt hand return full flow. It seems I could use a smaller return pump with a rt/lt return. Am I reading this correctly? Most of the fuges I have seen are not center return. Seems no one really knows the answer. I did it because the design is very clean with my sump directly behind the tank. I have two very short drains. I just would like to know if this was the right choice. I am running a mag12 at 4' head.

The most standard old school sumps are skimmer>fuge> return.. But many have different ideas on how to run them.. Its up to you and what you feel is best for your needs ;)
 
If possible, I'd try to isolate your fuge. My fuge is the entire front of my sump, not very deep front to back though. In the back my drain goes into the sump chamber and flows from there into the return section. That houses the return pump (duh), my heater, floats for ATO, and a maxi-jet 400 that had a small ball valve on it. That pumps water to the top of my fuge. The fuge then flows into the return.

You don't want too much flow through your fuge, so isolating it gives you the ability to slow the flow down, while the rest of your sump flows faster.

Just my $.02. Good luck with whatever you do.
 
Newer and custom designs mostly have it skimmer/return/fuge. I think old school is the right way to define skimmer/fuge/return.

I would say it would be best to allow maximum contact time in the fuge, which would make sense to have it not be part of the main flow of the sump. And then skimmers have their own flow by rate for maximum filtration. Since the two sections have different desirable flow rates it only make sens to have them on different sides.

Once again, fantastic systems use the older setup, but I believe the split sides with center return is best for the above reasons.
 
Newer and custom designs mostly have it skimmer/return/fuge. I think old school is the right way to define skimmer/fuge/return.

I would say it would be best to allow maximum contact time in the fuge, which would make sense to have it not be part of the main flow of the sump. And then skimmers have their own flow by rate for maximum filtration. Since the two sections have different desirable flow rates it only make sens to have them on different sides.

Once again, fantastic systems use the older setup, but I believe the split sides with center return is best for the above reasons.

Great minds, man. Great minds.... :D
 
I did a lot of reading, went to 10 different stores, asked many people and everyone had a different opinion. I second, third, and fourth guessed myself. After looking at tons of pics and big display tanks, I noticed one thing, everyone had a fuge hanging on the back. My guess was to allow control of flow through the fuge. So I went with my original plan. Sump->Ret<-Fuge. This way I can set the flow through the fuge. Wont do any good if its speeding through right?

Im waiting for my tank to be drilled right now and the silicone to dry in the fuge. I think I did a pretty good job. I guess time will tell. Will post pics of fuge when I get home from a fish fry.

I appreciate all the help, advice, and time everyone gave in this topic!
 
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