Tank transfer with dinos

anarchy

anarchy

Active member
Okay so my current tank has dinos and theres a chance for me to get a 180 super cheap. My question is with the plan below can i transfer my coral safely?

The plan

Fish
Ill set up the 180 with rodi and let it cycle. Once its cycled then ill move my fish over. Ive heard freshwater dips will kill dinos instantly. (Frags infested with dinos that i fw dipped currently have no visible dinos). So could i fw dip my fish and transfer them in?

Coral
The coral will go through a more vigorous treatment.

Softies,lps, and zoas
Peroxide/saltwater dip, then freshwater dip, rinse in fresh sw

Sps
Peroxide/saltwater, then fw dip, then bayer, rinse in fresh sw

Equipment
All equipment will be bleached and sterilized. Once the 180 is cycled then the coral can be held in a plastic tote while i sterilize equipment and once the 30 is sterilized i can fill it up with water from the 180 and use it as a temporary qt to make sure everything is gone?

Only 2 rocks from the 93 cant be acid washed (both zoa rocks) but there is no signs of dinos in the 93. The entire 2 rocks will go through the same dips as the coral above.

Well with everything said above do you think its possible to do without contaminating the 180

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anarchy

anarchy

Active member
[MENTION=50]DanSreef[/MENTION] [MENTION=1277]jrpark22000[/MENTION] [MENTION=2397]r33fswagg3r[/MENTION] [MENTION=1217]madjoe[/MENTION]

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ThePorkchopExpress

ThePorkchopExpress

New member
all it takes is 1 dino cell to survive any of your dips or hitchhike in a fish gill or inside a zoa or between 2 grains of sand to infest a new tank...with that said, it's all about environment...dinos will flourish in one environment but not in others, as you've seen in your 2 tanks...it's still not clear why this happens, whether it's nutrients or predation, so the best you can really do is make your environment as inhospitable as possible to dinos...what we do know is that they don't like competition...in many dino infested tanks there's been a correlation with minimal to no amounts of other algaes and microfauna...so to get rid of them, you need to promote the growth of other algaes and increase your biodiversity by dosing zooplankton, ie - copepods, munnid isopods, amphipods...there's also something about dosing live phytoplankton that make them stay away once their numbers are weakened...no one knows why but it seems to work

tl;dr - there's no guaranteed way of transferring livestock from one infested tank to another...my advice would be to fix your current situation and/or start completely over in the new tank
 
jrpark22000

jrpark22000

Premium member
ThePorkchopExpress said:
all it takes is 1 dino cell to survive any of your dips or hitchhike in a fish gill or inside a zoa or between 2 grains of sand to infest a new tank...with that said, it's all about environment...dinos will flourish in one environment but not in others, as you've seen in your 2 tanks...it's still not clear why this happens, whether it's nutrients or predation, so the best you can really do is make your environment as inhospitable as possible to dinos...what we do know is that they don't like competition...in many dino infested tanks there's been a correlation with minimal to no amounts of other algaes and microfauna...so to get rid of them, you need to promote the growth of other algaes and increase your biodiversity by dosing zooplankton, ie - copepods, munnid isopods, amphipods...there's also something about dosing live phytoplankton that make them stay away once their numbers are weakened...no one knows why but it seems to work

tl;dr - there's no guaranteed way of transferring livestock from one infested tank to another...my advice would be to fix your current situation and/or start completely over in the new tank
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I'd add even starting over with a new tank has a decent chance of still having dinos. Without finding the cause or original source of the dinos, it's just too likely to make the same mistake and get them again.
 
rockhead

rockhead

Well-known member
ThePorkchopExpress said:
all it takes is 1 dino cell to survive any of your dips or hitchhike in a fish gill or inside a zoa or between 2 grains of sand to infest a new tank...with that said, it's all about environment...dinos will flourish in one environment but not in others, as you've seen in your 2 tanks...it's still not clear why this happens, whether it's nutrients or predation, so the best you can really do is make your environment as inhospitable as possible to dinos...what we do know is that they don't like competition...in many dino infested tanks there's been a correlation with minimal to no amounts of other algaes and microfauna...so to get rid of them, you need to promote the growth of other algaes and increase your biodiversity by dosing zooplankton, ie - copepods, munnid isopods, amphipods...there's also something about dosing live phytoplankton that make them stay away once their numbers are weakened...no one knows why but it seems to work

tl;dr - there's no guaranteed way of transferring livestock from one infested tank to another...my advice would be to fix your current situation and/or start completely over in the new tank
Click to expand...
I don't believe I seen your name on the list above, your opinion doesn't count.
 
r33fswagg3r

r33fswagg3r

Premium member
Porkchop couldn't have put it better. The only thing I would add is to grab the great deal but don't xnfer existing problems into a new setup because your problems may become far worse due to an unstable new system.
 
dfee

dfee

Premium member
How long have you been battling Dino? And with what methods? I had them a LONG time. Good luck. I agree, don't try transferring livestock til Dino has been gone for a few months


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anarchy

anarchy

Active member
dfee said:
How long have you been battling Dino? And with what methods? I had them a LONG time. Good luck. I agree, don't try transferring livestock til Dino has been gone for a few months


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Had them a couple months. Ive done multiple blackouts and peroxide. Ive scraped all the glass and got all of the coralline off, scraped the overflow and fw dipped the few sps that had dinos on it. Theres dinos are only on my overflow and 1 efflo. I could fw dip the efflo and theyd be gone but the overflow still has them. Ive also increased the flow by the overflow. I dont have the long brown strands this is a very short brown almost film like but harder to get off

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SkullV

SkullV

New member
I'm not sure if I missed it, but have you inspected the nuisance substance under a microscope to guarantee what you're dealing with is in fact Dino?
 
anarchy

anarchy

Active member
SkullV said:
I'm not sure if I missed it, but have you inspected the nuisance substance under a microscope to guarantee what you're dealing with is in fact Dino?
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No i havnt. Have to find a microscope and some time

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SkullV

SkullV

New member
anarchy said:
No i havnt. Have to find a microscope and some time

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What you're describing SCREAMS Diatoms to me, especially with the "increase dissolved nutrients" approach you took. You may have indeed had dinoflagellates at one point and now have diatoms or one of hundreds of other types of brown dusty nuisance algae. Before even considering doing anything else with this tank, adding anything, removing anything, transferring anything, treating anything, changing water, etc. I would figure out exactly what you are dealing with and what your tank levels are.
 
anarchy

anarchy

Active member
SkullV said:
What you're describing SCREAMS Diatoms to me, especially with the "increase dissolved nutrients" approach you took. You may have indeed had dinoflagellates at one point and now have diatoms or one of hundreds of other types of brown dusty nuisance algae. Before even considering doing anything else with this tank, adding anything, removing anything, transferring anything, treating anything, changing water, etc. I would figure out exactly what you are dealing with and what your tank levels are.
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Even with the bubbles in it that go away at night and come back throughout the day? But i have no visible microbibbles in my displays. Also why only in this tank and not the 93 that has more of a bioload? Im not trying to say your wrong or anything like that just curious to know these answers if you can give them, so i can further understand

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SkullV

SkullV

New member
anarchy said:
Even with the bubbles in it that go away at night and come back throughout the day? But i have no visible microbibbles in my displays. Also why only in this tank and not the 93 that has more of a bioload? Im not trying to say your wrong or anything like that just curious to know these answers if you can give them, so i can further understand

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Yes, the bubbles are common with diatoms (and several other types of algae as well). If the tanks share a sump then bioload is irrelevant. There is something about the flow, lighting, angle of room lighting, whatever that is going on that has made that tank/area a more favorable home for the algae. If I remember correctly, you use a metal halide over the tank with the issue and something else over the other tank? When is the last time you changed the bulb? What ballast are you running? Often times a halide bulb older than 6 months will shift towards red enough to cause algae issues. Also metal halide bulbs that are under driven by old/cheap/defective/improper spec. ballasts can have the same issue.
 
anarchy

anarchy

Active member
SkullV said:
Yes, the bubbles are common with diatoms (and several other types of algae as well). If the tanks share a sump then bioload is irrelevant. There is something about the flow, lighting, angle of room lighting, whatever that is going on that has made that tank/area a more favorable home for the algae. If I remember correctly, you use a metal halide over the tank with the issue and something else over the other tank? When is the last time you changed the bulb? What ballast are you running? Often times a halide bulb older than 6 months will shift towards red enough to cause algae issues. Also metal halide bulbs that are under driven by old/cheap/defective/improper spec. ballasts can have the same issue.
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Both tanks have the exact same lighting same age bulbs and a dual blue line ballast. It could be because of the 3 tangs and rabbit in the 93 and no algae eating fish in the 30. Theres only snails and an urchin. Think thats the issue? Thanks for the help Ted

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SkullV

SkullV

New member
anarchy said:
Both tanks have the exact same lighting same age bulbs and a dual blue line ballast. It could be because of the 3 tangs and rabbit in the 93 and no algae eating fish in the 30. Theres only snails and an urchin. Think thats the issue? Thanks for the help Ted

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Definitely a possibility. At this point I would do two things. First, get back to basics. 20% weekly water changes with good clean water (even if you have to buy RO water at the supermarket), test to see where your levels are at, and get them back to generally accepted home reef levels using water changes and GFO if necessary. Second, inspect your nuisance substance under a microscope. If it's not Dino, go ahead with your tank transfer, but don't spend a penny on anything again until you get yourself a good working RODI system.
 
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