what do u guys think?

erok90

erok90

Member
im gonna be swapping out the lighting in my nc12 to leds.most of you who know my old set up.where I had a open top nc12 with a ledtric par38.everything was great.zoas and paly growing crazy.sps growing too.long story short got a new nc12 that I want to swap the lighting over to leds with the top on this time.this is what I came up with.what do u guys think? This will be my first diy led setup.

8 http://www.rapidled.com/solderless-cree-xt-e-royal-blue-led/

4 http://www.rapidled.com/solderless-cree-xp-g-cool-white-led-1/

2 http://www.rapidled.com/0-10v-dimmable-nano-driver-with-potentiometer/

With this layout

BWBBWB
BWBBWB

I like the 20k look so that is why I chose this layout.just like my old par38.heres the old setup.


 
jm23

jm23

Active member
If it were me I would go:
RB/CW/B/RB/WW/B
B/WW/RB/B/CW/RB
This still gives you the temp you are looking for, but adds important parts of the spectrum into it. Just double check that they run at the same voltage.
 
erok90

erok90

Member
Very interesting... I gonna have to look into that.can u help explain the spectrum difference running CW and WW opposed to just CW.
 
erok90

erok90

Member
frostyjay1 said:
cool white is a little more pure white and bright. Warm white is softer and a little yellower
Click to expand...
I know that.what I want to know is if by running both CW AND WW if there is a added benefit opposed to just WW? Does one promote better coral grow then the other?
 
fwadiver

fwadiver

New member
neutral white is the way to go, it just looks better on the eyes to me (has more yellow) the cool white gives everythign too much of a fake blue glow, i feel like it hurts my eyes to look at the tank with it. I also believe the neutral gives u better growth. I would go for the ledgroup buy stars, couple 3 ups and couple ocean coral whites

they have them in solderless too if your heart is set on that.


http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/solderless-cree-xt-e-3up/

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/solderless-ocean-coral-white/
 
GBeck87

GBeck87

Member
I have the rapids in my BC29 and i cant complain theyre amazing. I would recomend soldering if you can, because when stringing the leds on the heatsink i had issues with the 3" wires they gave me. Its just makes it easier if you can cut to measure when the last led on your string is farther then 3" away. They make longer ones but i didnt know how far apart theyd be until i mounted my leds. Hope this helps

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GBeck87

GBeck87

Member
For a 12 NC? i would think that would be too large. He has a lid so if you went no top i would save yourself some money and get FS par38s from CC.

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GBeck87

GBeck87

Member
My buddy in florida is a huge DIY LED guy is constantly building for people and himself. Hes the best person ive talked to regaurding DIY leds. Hes been telling me that the 3 ups arent that great. He was planning my next build and i told him i wanted 3 ups and he told me he wont use them anymore. Since you have no choices for optics if you choose to run them. Only use NW its hits more points on the spectrum, you shouldnt need to run 2 types of whites.

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erok90

erok90

Member
GBeck87 said:
My buddy in florida is a huge DIY LED guy is constantly building for people and himself. Hes the best person ive talked to regaurding DIY leds. Hes been telling me that the 3 ups arent that great. He was planning my next build and i told him i wanted 3 ups and he told me he wont use them anymore. Since you have no choices for optics if you choose to run them. Only use NW its hits more points on the spectrum, you shouldnt need to run 2 types of whites.

Sent from my LG-VM696 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...
Ur right about the NW.thanks from the advice.so NW it is
 
GBeck87

GBeck87

Member
Have you thought about Full spectrum for your tank. The heatsink that comes with the retro can fit more LEDS that come with it. I added 6 more so i can get FS. Just a thought.

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T

Tbonekilla

Member
You should do 3ups. Lenses and current are the limiting factors with them. You don't need lenses since these will be in the hood and you won't have these led's past 700ma because of how close they are.

12 leds are a bit overkill on these tanks which gives you a little bit to play with. I would do three rb/nw 3ups, two blue, and two OCW. Four blue will easily overpower the other colors and give you the blue water windex look. Plus they are only for the human eye. Have the blue and OCW on a third driver and just turn it up til you get the right color you want. Let the 3ups be the workhorse.

I got the rapid kit on my BC14 and its only at 30%. That's why I say you can drop some PAR leds and go with some full spectrum ones(blue and OCW).

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