What LED to choose?

Do you think a full spectrum will be just as effective penetration wise?

poidog-

I looked into the Radion. from Aquacave they start at 750 bucks for each fixture....I need two!!! Ouch!

Maybe I should just go back to good old fashioned T5...LOL!

Buy from Premium Aquatics, no tax!

But with t5s you get no shimmer. I needz me shimmer! Haha

I say bite the bullet and buy the best that to can afford, not what range you want to stay in, and you won't regret it a month later.
 
Do you know of a way to mount the Apollo lights form the tank and not hang them from the ceiling? Do you think I could buy an AI rail system and rig it to work. I want it to stay below the canopy.

You can buy steel L beams and put them in the sides of ur canopy and rest the lights on them. From the front it would look like L light (backwards L)
 
Everlasting night champion lighting was giving a discount on ecotech stuff when you checkout, but I'd go for two customs Apollo fixtures + apex
 
Radions will not work for this tank. No Radions for tanks deeper than 24".

Sorry stupid iPad...meant "even last night"

Yeah, would, go with two custom apollo's plus an apex, that's what I'm leaning toward for my setup
 
You still need to be aware, with the Dimmable Apollo, you are trading off having useable PAR at the sand 30" down, to having about 4x as much light as you need for the first 12"-18" down. This is why really tall tanks do not make good reef tanks, regardless which lights you choose to run. Could be easier to get a shallower tank (24" tall or less) with more front to back depth if you can afford the floor space for such.
 
So for a 24" deep tank like the standard 180 I have, wouldn't the apollos work for me? You are saying for the OP tank the deep tank is not great for reefs, which is the issue
 
The bad thing about the evo's is that they are not electronically dimmable, they have a manual knob to adjust.
 
The bad thing about the evo's is that they are not electronically dimmable, they have a manual knob to adjust.

I read that but I have never been able to dim my halides so I wasn't worried.
They seam to have pretty good coverage anything else bad about them?
 
The EVOs use junk EpiStar LEDs. They are very well known for spectrum shifting within 2 months of firing them for the first time. If all you want is EpiStar you can get an identical fixture on ebay for $150. The Evolution fixtures are also pretty well known for overheating because of the cheap fans, thin heatsinks, and poor cooling design.

The 3w Bridgelux in the Apollo aren't as efficient as CREE but they are only run at 2w anyway so it is not likely at all that they will shift spectrum/burn out/etc. If you ran all 55 of them at the full 3W you wouldn't be able to keep anything in the tank, everything would just bleach.

For mid-class fixtures Apollo --> AI Sol -->Everything Else.
 
So for a 24" deep tank like the standard 180 I have, wouldn't the apollos work for me? You are saying for the OP tank the deep tank is not great for reefs, which is the issue

Yes, they would work just fine in a 24" deep tank. You would want 3 of them equally spaced over your 6 foot wide tank. I am keeping various birdsnests and even a couple millepora about 18-20" below water and they are doing well. My palythoas and ricordeas are all on the lower half of my tank and also doing just fine. It is just that the PAR levels drop off exponentially the deeper then project into the water, and by the time light would make it down 30"+ there would be very little useable light, even if that far down the tank is still brightly lit.
 
What do you guys no about kessil they have been in this alot longer then any one. just growing other things that make people happy.

Kessil is a brand to look at for sure. Not much out there on them though and they don't have much out there yet as far as a product line for marine aquariums.
 
there 350's are a product i am waiting on. I just like that they are not just diving into the led thing but they are diving into the reef thing.
 
Ok Im sold on the Apollo lights!...I think I will use a 3-4 inch sand bed and just not keep anything but mushrooms down there, or maybe even put a nice shelf with some orange sun corals under it for some deep water color......Thank you to everyone who has given me so much advice!!!!

I will post some pics once they are up and running!~
 
Ok Im sold on the Apollo lights!...I think I will use a 3-4 inch sand bed and just not keep anything but mushrooms down there, or maybe even put a nice shelf with some orange sun corals under it for some deep water color......Thank you to everyone who has given me so much advice!!!!

I will post some pics once they are up and running!~

You will be able to keep more than mushrooms on the sandbed with those fixtures. Good choice on the Apollo for your tank. MAKE SURE TO CUSTOM ORDER A MORE FULL SPECTRUM LED ARRAY!!
 
When I spoke with Joe Stewart he said the new dimmable are already several wavelengths and he suggested to just stay with that not the 403 (red and greens) He said they do not look good with reef tanks and are more likely tob cause an algae bloom.....What are your opinions?
 
When I spoke with Joe Stewart he said the new dimmable are already several wavelengths and he suggested to just stay with that not the 403 (red and greens) He said they do not look good with reef tanks and are more likely tob cause an algae bloom.....What are your opinions?

What wavelengths do they include? Without red/green full spectrum is not possible. I'm assuming without knowing anything that he included warm white or neutral white in the new fixtures. These LEDs can add quite a bit to the spectrum, but I prefer the ability to individually control each LED color.

I can tell you from looking at my tank every day that red/green DO look good with reef tanks (much better than cool white/blue) and unless you hammer the tank with red it won't increase algae growth. In proper proportion they won't increase anything. That may be difficult to achieve unless the new fixture allows you do dim each color independently.

Certain corals NEED green light to fluoresce properly. All MH bulbs include green, most T5 bulbs include green.
 
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