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- Thread starter anarchy
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anarchy
Active member
I'm pretty happy with this list. Maybe a few modifications to it but for the most part I like it.
This is going to be a long and slow build. Taking my time on everything.
First things first I'm building a 78x30x34 stand to hold all 3 nanos. I'll have plenty of room inside stand for all my sumps, ato, and QT.
If anyone has an idea on what led lights to run that won't cost an arm and a leg I'd like to upgrade all my halides. If money doesn't allow the upgrade then I still have 4 250w halides to use.
Any comments or suggestions to help the build would be appreciated
Top Water
New member
I have to agree with most of what Ted has said in this thread. If you think it cost a lot now going too fast will only cost a lot more in $ and frustration . It's ok to hold on to the tank and get situated and comfortable first. Some of us have paid the price and only trying to help you learn from our mistakes. There have been a lot a people that burn out of the hobby because they turn it into too much work and not just enjoying it .
anarchy
Active member
I agree with you and ted. The past couple months I've made some mistakes going too quickly, but I've also learned from them. Now I'm going slow and steady. I know the maintenance involved but I also try to stick to a routine and haven't had any quality issues. Only pests, which I'm hoping won't be a problem from here on out since I'll be dipping coral and have a QT. And buying quality equipment with backups should stop catastrophic events from happening. I've been trying to get my tanks setup the right way the first time so I don't run into issues like the overflowing 27. Now I shouldn't have those kinds of problems. Hopefully over the next few months of getting the equipment and starting the build you guys will see that I'm doing things the right way instead of the cheap way before
1000rrstunna
Member
Dude I'll help ya out but you gotta pick your two tanks or return the deep blue for a 75 or something and use your 29 for the sump and run the 27 cube I just drilled for you as your frag tank... 3 is wayyyyyy to much work and will kill your fun... You have stared into my 93 both times you've come over... The reason it's looking so good and pest free is because It took a year of rules and guidelines I follow consistently... I honestly wish I would have bought a 90 instead of my 180 and set it up on the other side of the room without having to transfer the 93 because I hate to tear it apart and risk hurting what I've worked hard for ill show you how to build a tank like mine but if you going to have it forever build it right I'm not gonna waste my time ghetto rigging edit... We can follow a budget as well but patience is a virtue
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anarchy
Active member
Ted got me thinking about running both cubes off a single sump so I took it a step further. See what you guys think about this
I'll have a 29gal fuge that will drain into the 29gal sump since both are drilled on the back and all the equipment will be housed in the sump. Drains are all 1" returns will be 3/4". There's ball valves on each pipe to adjust for flow. The sump will only be a little over half full so it won't overflow in a power outage. Ato in sump. I'll run the reef octopus 125 I have, titanium heater, and possibly 2 jebao dc3000 one for each tank to insure I have enough flow
I'll have a 29gal fuge that will drain into the 29gal sump since both are drilled on the back and all the equipment will be housed in the sump. Drains are all 1" returns will be 3/4". There's ball valves on each pipe to adjust for flow. The sump will only be a little over half full so it won't overflow in a power outage. Ato in sump. I'll run the reef octopus 125 I have, titanium heater, and possibly 2 jebao dc3000 one for each tank to insure I have enough flow
anarchy
Active member
Ok so after alot of collaboration here is the terrible sketch of the new design.
A lot of people are not going to be able to decipher that so. Each drain will split and one will drain to sump and the other to the fuge. There will be ball valves on each drain pipe. One tank will drain more into the sump and the other tank will drain more to the fuge. The returns will have a ball valve on them. Basically everything is the same except the drains. Some were worried about too much draining into filter causing an overflow and others were worried about too much flow through fuge and not enough contact time with chaeto and such.
A lot of people are not going to be able to decipher that so. Each drain will split and one will drain to sump and the other to the fuge. There will be ball valves on each drain pipe. One tank will drain more into the sump and the other tank will drain more to the fuge. The returns will have a ball valve on them. Basically everything is the same except the drains. Some were worried about too much draining into filter causing an overflow and others were worried about too much flow through fuge and not enough contact time with chaeto and such.
anarchy
Active member
I thought the same thing. And I don't think any pipes would clog since I run the plastic cone shaped screens on my drains. I thought the first idea was fine or do I still need one tank draining to sump and one tank to fuge or just both to fuge. There is 2 1" bulkheads on the back of my fuge that will connect to the 2 1" bulkheads on the back of the sump. And imo with a ball valve and union on each pipe there should be no chance of overflow
anarchy
Active member
Been thinking about stocking options and here's what I've decided on.
30
My 2 snowflakes
Horned blenny
Hi fin red banded goby
27
My 2 ocellaris clowns
Starry blenny
Yasha white ray shrimp goby
And I'm going to get a white banded possum wrasse that I'll move back and forth to keep the bristleworms in check
Let me know what you guys think
30
My 2 snowflakes
Horned blenny
Hi fin red banded goby
27
My 2 ocellaris clowns
Starry blenny
Yasha white ray shrimp goby
And I'm going to get a white banded possum wrasse that I'll move back and forth to keep the bristleworms in check
Let me know what you guys think
anarchy
Active member
Ones a 18" or 20" cube and ones a 24" cube