Connecting rods for Evergrow/Reefbreeders fixtures

Joe5688 said:
I got some wood u can hang off at the Joes Tower :spy: :rofl:
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the span would not be nearly as impressive. . .


the other advantage of using strut is all of the ready made hanging brackets and parts. If you look around enough you will be able to build a rack that looks like it was made for your set-up. If you use the aluminum, it will have to be made FOR your system, but that can be really good too.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cat...=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=Search+All
 
edsbeaker said:
Is that aluminum Joe? Is it as strong as the metal struts would be, and can you drill holes through it? I like the top one since it has that lip that would prevent the fixture from falling off.
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didn't even see this.

Yeah it's aluminum. L channel and U channel. It's the stuff guys use to make LED fixtures. Aluminum is easy to drill. While it's not as strong as the struts Nate mentioned (those things would hold a car) they should be more then enought to hold some small fixtures while still allowing u to use the stock hanging kits
 
You guys are all great!!!:knuddel: Thanks for all the help. I think I have a plan now. The framework support is perfect to allow the fixtures to be mobile and still hang from the ceiling, and the aluminum has a built in rim preventing the fixtures from commiting suicide, it's easy to drill, and it's thin enough that it won't interfere with the beam of the lights. What a great collaboration of great minds. I'm sold!!! Time to go to work.
 
Nice, Joe.

I'm off to Lowes to get L channel. Didn't see any "L" online from Menards or Home Depot. Will get the 1" which will be more forgiving if my measurements aren't perfect. I want to do this before the fixtures are delivered.
 
They sell different thickness of the L-channel. Go with what u think is correct.

I'd wait till u get the fixtures. Figure out how long the pieces need to be and then cut. I'd also run the L channel the whole length of the fixture so it looks like part of the fixture.
 
if you are going to butt them against each other just get some 2 pieces of aluminum U channel stock the length of both fixtures. use it open end up and drill the holes to match the existing mount posts on the LEDs add a washer and use the hanging cables that come with it to secure at all 8 points and hang using the end cables from the braces at the end of your canopy. The post are long enough to get a good thread and secure.

The mounts in the picture go inside the u channel
numa3eru.jpg
 
Siebo said:
if you are going to butt them against each other just get some 2 pieces of aluminum U channel stock the length of both fixtures. use it open end up and drill the holes to match the existing mount posts on the LEDs add a washer and use the hanging cables that come with it to secure at all 8 points and hang using the end cables from the braces at the end of your canopy. The post are long enough to get a good thread and secure.
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I like this idea. It would be really clean looking and easy to do.
 
Herbie said:
LOL, Edsbeaker just focus-grouped this product into existence:
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aqua-illumination-led-mounting-rails.html
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Cool!


Thanks for the new ideas, but I think I have a clear picture of what I need to do. I'm going to make the rails closer to the length of the tank, for one major reason. Not everyone here knows, but my tank bracing is a little unusual. I have a 60" long tank that has a center overflow and a brace on each side of the overflow. The braces are only 9 1/2" apart. Until I get the lights over the tank, I will have no idea where they will work best to light that center section, and both ends. For all I know I will have to purchase a third fixture. So, I need to have the flexibility of being able to move the fixtures back and forth to find the best position, as well as the ability of adding a third fixture. I know it may not look as custom as some of your great ideas, but it is also hidden inside a canopy and mounted high enough that nothing will get in the way. I have my ATI light mounted lower than where this will be, and I have no trouble servicing my tank.

So I did buy some of the 1" aluminum L brackets and some stainless bolts, washers, and wing nuts, and tomorrow I'll see what I can put together. Nobody expect it to be pretty!
 
I came upon this product and it looks kind of promising, and you can buy it at a local electrical supply store. It's made of aluminum, and has basically two tracks, one on top and one on the bottom. I can hang the fixture from the bottom track using screws/washers, etc, and I can hang the fixture from the ceiling using the top track.

http://www.steinerelectric.com/index.jsp?path=80-20

What do you think?
 
Hey Marilyn, hope you don't mind if I hop on here and ask the brain trust a few related questions.

Since I'm also getting 2 evo's and need to mount them in a canopy, does anyone know if I can just screw through the canopy top and bolt the lights flush without hanging them? I'd line it up and bolt right into where the post mounts go. Would there be a heat issue mounting these flush against the canopy or should I hang them from the canopy? Or is it better to at least mount them to a strut?
 
EricTheRed said:
Hey Marilyn, hope you don't mind if I hop on here and ask the brain trust a few related questions.

Since I'm also getting 2 evo's and need to mount them in a canopy, does anyone know if I can just screw through the canopy top and bolt the lights flush without hanging them? I'd line it up and bolt right into where the post mounts go. Would there be a heat issue mounting these flush against the canopy or should I hang them from the canopy? Or is it better to at least mount them to a strut?
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I don't mind at all Eric. :happy:

I'm still working on figuring it out myself. I guess there isn't one answer for any of us since our set ups are so different from one another.

If I'm understanding correctly, I see two possible issues, the plug and the fans rest on top of the fixture. I suppose you can cut openings in the canopy for the fans, but I don't know how you would deal with the plug, unless of course you cut a third opening for it, and have the cord resting on top of your canopy.

If the fans have an opening above them, I can't see why that won't work, but what do I know? :noidea:
 
Thanks, guess I won't be mounting to the canopy. Guess I'll build some sort of strut frame and screw it to the canopy. I think I'd prefer struts since I don't want them swinging around in there.
 
Eric, with all the thinking I've been doing today trying to figure it out, I noticed if you use the struts, (my 1st plan was to bolt them to the fixtures lengthwise using those mounting screws), On the back of the fixture you won't be able to put one length of strut from the left side of the first fixture across to the right side of the second fixture flush against it because of that plug. Didn't know if that's how you were envisioning it.
 
I was thinking about bolting 2 small struts from front to back on the fixture and then bolting them to longer lengthwise strut that I would bolt to the canopy. This should add more distance between the light and the canopy like in the bottom-right pic...
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ddiomede said:
Spray them with krylon fusion. That should help.
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Do you think that will prevent it, or just take longer to rust? Just trying to decide between the aluminum or struts.

Eric, I think you're on to something that may be a better option for me as well. I'll have to go back to the drawing board.
 
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