KeishaKornbread
Banned
Will do. The wrasse is in the QT waiting for you. Been sitting in copper for more than a week.
Jrpark22000 - 110 rimless tank
- Thread starter jrpark22000
- Start date
jrpark22000
Premium member
sounds good. I'll drop you a PM to coordinate.
jrpark22000
Premium member
thanks Smitty. I like one big update each year to keep track of progress.
jrpark22000
Premium member
So now that I’ve had the setup going for a couple weeks, here is the reactor I have running kaldnes K1 moving bed media.
I am still tweaking it daily. The effluent tube burps making a mess, I’ve changed air pumps and flow rates, changed the volume of K1, and many other modifications from my initial plan. Overall it is coming along, but with any change long term results will only prove whether this is worth the effort or not.
I don’t need the K1 on my Display, but in my QT I’ve always had ammonia problems. My plan was to setup K1 on the display and use it similarly to a seeded sponge. When needed take the K1 from the display and put it into the QT reactor. I’m still building the QT reactor, I’m waiting until I get the problems worked out on the display first.
Now onto the math and the reason why this interested me so much… the small volume of K1 in the display reactor could handle all of the food load in my tank by itself.
Kaldnes K1
Handles 250g(@40% protein) food per 50L of media
**5g per 1L**
Avast Marine mr-10 20" tall (custom ordered)
Height: 22" Overall / Width: 7" Overall
Reaction Chamber: 20" x 4" (4.25" actual inner diameter)
Total Capacity: 283 cu" / 1.22 gallons / 19.6 cups / 4.63L
Kaldnes K1 capacity: bed depth 11.5" / 163 cu" / .7 gallons / 2.67L
volume w/o inner pipe / 136 cu" / .58 gal / 2.22L
NexReef MR1
Height: 16" Overall / Width: 6" Overall
Reaction Chamber: 14" x 4" (3.75" actual inner diameter)
Total Capacity: 155 cu" / .67 gallons / 2.5L
Kaldnes K1 capacity: bed depth 6.5" (estimate) / 71 cu" / .3 gallons / 1.16L
volume w/o inner pipe / 56 cu" / .24 gal / .91L
AquaClear 70
Width: 8" Overall
Reaction Chamber: 3.25d" x 5.5h" x 5.5w"
Total Capacity: 98 cu" / .42 gallons / 1.6L
Kaldnes K1 capacity: bed depth 3.5" (estimate) / .26 gallons / 1L
mr10 20" tall can digest 11.1g food daily
MR1 can digest 4.5g food daily
AquaClear 70 can digest 5g food daily
Display Feeding;
hikari cube is 3g ea (6g feed daily)
autofeeder food storage jar is 30g (takes 4 weeks or more to empty(1g daily)
SPS Coral feeding >2g (every 4 days)
LPS Coral feeding 3 hikari cubes (9g every 4 days)
Daily Display feeding average >10g daily
Daily QT feeding average - currently empty
Daily Pico feeding - build in progress
I am still tweaking it daily. The effluent tube burps making a mess, I’ve changed air pumps and flow rates, changed the volume of K1, and many other modifications from my initial plan. Overall it is coming along, but with any change long term results will only prove whether this is worth the effort or not.
I don’t need the K1 on my Display, but in my QT I’ve always had ammonia problems. My plan was to setup K1 on the display and use it similarly to a seeded sponge. When needed take the K1 from the display and put it into the QT reactor. I’m still building the QT reactor, I’m waiting until I get the problems worked out on the display first.
Now onto the math and the reason why this interested me so much… the small volume of K1 in the display reactor could handle all of the food load in my tank by itself.
Kaldnes K1
Handles 250g(@40% protein) food per 50L of media
**5g per 1L**
Avast Marine mr-10 20" tall (custom ordered)
Height: 22" Overall / Width: 7" Overall
Reaction Chamber: 20" x 4" (4.25" actual inner diameter)
Total Capacity: 283 cu" / 1.22 gallons / 19.6 cups / 4.63L
Kaldnes K1 capacity: bed depth 11.5" / 163 cu" / .7 gallons / 2.67L
volume w/o inner pipe / 136 cu" / .58 gal / 2.22L
NexReef MR1
Height: 16" Overall / Width: 6" Overall
Reaction Chamber: 14" x 4" (3.75" actual inner diameter)
Total Capacity: 155 cu" / .67 gallons / 2.5L
Kaldnes K1 capacity: bed depth 6.5" (estimate) / 71 cu" / .3 gallons / 1.16L
volume w/o inner pipe / 56 cu" / .24 gal / .91L
AquaClear 70
Width: 8" Overall
Reaction Chamber: 3.25d" x 5.5h" x 5.5w"
Total Capacity: 98 cu" / .42 gallons / 1.6L
Kaldnes K1 capacity: bed depth 3.5" (estimate) / .26 gallons / 1L
mr10 20" tall can digest 11.1g food daily
MR1 can digest 4.5g food daily
AquaClear 70 can digest 5g food daily
Display Feeding;
hikari cube is 3g ea (6g feed daily)
autofeeder food storage jar is 30g (takes 4 weeks or more to empty(1g daily)
SPS Coral feeding >2g (every 4 days)
LPS Coral feeding 3 hikari cubes (9g every 4 days)
Daily Display feeding average >10g daily
Daily QT feeding average - currently empty
Daily Pico feeding - build in progress
KeishaKornbread
Banned
WOW! It's up and running. How is the tumble so far?
jrpark22000
Premium member
Thanks Dave
Walt, I let the media sit w/o tumbling for the first week to build bacteria. I first tired a luft pump, but it didn't have enough volume. I switched out for my SuperLuft-65 and the tumble is now fully adjustable. At full air rate the media goes nuts, but I have it set at a full fluidized, medium boil roll.
Walt, I let the media sit w/o tumbling for the first week to build bacteria. I first tired a luft pump, but it didn't have enough volume. I switched out for my SuperLuft-65 and the tumble is now fully adjustable. At full air rate the media goes nuts, but I have it set at a full fluidized, medium boil roll.
jrpark22000
Premium member
An update on the new fish additions now that everynoe is out of QT. Sorry for all the floaties, I had to feed to try and get everyone out. Photos are decent for crappy cell pics.
Chocolate Tang and bicolor blenny hate to pose. Possum wrasse is only seen for a few glimpes daily. Midas is a true blue and photos do not do justice.
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Chocolate Tang and bicolor blenny hate to pose. Possum wrasse is only seen for a few glimpes daily. Midas is a true blue and photos do not do justice.
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jrpark22000
Premium member
Thanks Ben. I got completely lucky with timing. The borb makes the motion often enought but it lasts a second or less.
KeishaKornbread
Banned
jrpark22000
Premium member
Thanks Walt. Trigger and Butterfly are both about 5" long. Midas about 3.5". Clown and flameback about 3". Borb about 2.5-3". This is the trigger I had Brian bring in which prompted him to get many many more since.
ReefDweller
Member
Looking good Josh. Me likey. Is that a pectina in the 3rd picture,does it have orange or yel. eyes?
jrpark22000
Premium member
Cheers Menard. Green eyed red-brown rimmed pectinia. A photo from a few months ago. View attachment 11472
jrpark22000
Premium member
Cheers Jeff. I'd have a hard time listing all the stuff in in the cabinets. The apex, modules and dosing pumps line the inner walls, huge skimmer, sodalime, and K1 in the main cabinet. Ozone, GAC, GFO and ATO in the QT cabinet. Lots more little stuff in all the rest of the open spots. It's all modular, so maintenance is easy considering how tight everything is.
Tangency
New member
How long have you been using ozone? Have you seen a noticeable difference. From what I have read there seems to be a lot of added benefit... I am just not sure if I need another thing to worry about.
jrpark22000
Premium member
I wouldn’t recommend ozone to anyone as a general rule. It takes research to understand the many negatives and to work around them. There is a really long thread (400+ posts) on RC in Advanced Topics, “Ozone Use.” I recommend anyone considering Ozone to read 100% of the thread and linked articles. There are health risks to you and your tank, carbon choices, HLLE concerns, deterioration of pump seals and plastics, air dryers, and the choice of how to implement ozone.
All that said, I’ve been running it on my system for more than a year and have no intentions of removing it. The only major benefit is the lack of yellowing of the water. The water is so clear it is invisible at all times. It really compliments Starfire glass. Besides that I have probably raised the dissolved O2 in the tank, but as I don’t test for it I have no idea how much if any. The other myths, including improved skimming are all discussed in the RC thread.
All that said, I’ve been running it on my system for more than a year and have no intentions of removing it. The only major benefit is the lack of yellowing of the water. The water is so clear it is invisible at all times. It really compliments Starfire glass. Besides that I have probably raised the dissolved O2 in the tank, but as I don’t test for it I have no idea how much if any. The other myths, including improved skimming are all discussed in the RC thread.
Tangency
New member
Yeh I have been trying to work through Randy Holmes-Farley 3 part article on ozone. Very informative but its not always an easy read.
I am glad its working for you.