Need Help with Zoas!

mvpttk

Member
Hello All,

i have 65 gallon tank reef tank.

i do 15 gallon water change every 2 to 3 week with kent marine reef salt. all my hard coral are doing great and growing crazy.

but some of my zoas are doing good but some zoas starting to malt or dying.

can anyone please help.

Yes its only zoas that has problem. some zoas doing great. but zoas like Utter Chaos, Purple Hornet, Fire and Ice are not doing good.
don't have any bugs. i check that also did coral dip.
how much light is to much. i have two ai prime hd about 6 inch above tank. one 48 inch current usa orbit marine aquarium led light
everything at 50% bright.
Thank You

my salt level is 1.026



Thank You
Tarak
 
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imo, that's just zoas. I have middle end zoas that flourish and some no names....had about 25p of k.o. nightmares just melt away on me, while the kraks, rastas, hornets etc just keep growing.
 
^ What he said! Zoas are probably the most bipolar coral I've dealt with. But I get lucky with them.. Once it looks like its all going to disappear, they come back :)
 
I would inspect the problem zoas with a magnifying glass. You could have any number of things going on there. You could have zoa eating nudibranchs, zoa eating spiders, zoapox...
 
Yes its only zoas that has problem. some zoas doing great. but zoas like Utter Chaos, Purple Hornet, Fire and Ice are not doing good.
don't have any bugs. i check that also did coral dip.
how much light is to much. i have two ai prime hd about 6 inch above tank. one 48 inch current usa orbit marine aquarium led light
everything at 50% bright.
Thank You
 
I've heard that so many times, and I'm almost 100% certain its a case of mistaken ID. I can't even count the times I've heard somebody says their peppermint shrimp is munching on a coral, and then they post a photo of what is actually a camel (camelback) shrimp.

Healthy Zoas should not me melting.
 
Stop doing water changes and get your sticks to die then those zoas will do good i had same zoas same issues i gave em to a buddy with a not so clean tank and they took off . I gave up some did ok with sps water conditions so they stayed and thrived the others didnt like the clean water and bright light conditions. Imo its tge the name if the game gotta figure out whichs ines do good in your system most likely its not your fault at all
 
Some sticks do good in tanks some zoas do good in tanks, but i'v noticed both do better in certain arias of of my tank. So when I put a new coral in my tank I first put it where i like it and if it does well i leave it there if it does bad i move it to a different spot and leave it there a couple weeks. Flow lighting and nutrients have different affects on different corals, the key is to find the right spot with the right amount of nutrients for each. But this is my opinion and others might disagree
 
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Some sticks do good in tanks some zoas do good in tanks, but i'v noticed both do better in certain arias of of my tank. So when I put a new coral in my tank I first put it where i like it and if it does well i leave it there if it does bad i move it to a different spot and leave it there a couple weeks. Flow lighting and nutrients have have different affects on different corals, the key is to find the right spot with the right amount of nutrients for each. But this is my opinion and others might disagree

Truth
 
Stop doing water changes and get your sticks to die then those zoas will do good i had same zoas same issues i gave em to a buddy with a not so clean tank and they took off . I gave up some did ok with sps water conditions so they stayed and thrived the others didnt like the clean water and bright light conditions. Imo its tge the name if the game gotta figure out whichs ines do good in your system most likely its not your fault at all

I agree with Joe, they prefer a little dirtier water. I have found a sweet spot for my acro's and zoas to both be happy, but I know my acros could color up better if the water was slightly cleaner.
 
In my system, there's varying levels of random flow, although a few areas exist that are "vortex" spots where detritus and uneaten food settle. Coral near those areas have an opportunity to eat that sh** until I siphon it out. Those areas also happen to be just outside of direct light, and that's where I've been putting my few pieces of LPS, and zoanthids. I figure this way, I can keep a very low nutrient system for SPS, and still have the ability to keep other coral that require more nutrients.
 
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