Jrpark22000 2.2g DeepBlue

Tank2379

Active member
Thanks for the recomendation. I'm torn. I really want jager to make a heater that is short enough to fit. Their 25w is 9" long. I'm just hoping this cobalt doesn't pull a stealth heater and explode taking the tank with it.
Ugh that will suck for me and you... lol..But if it does I'm going with the Finnex for sure Jager is good but they don't make a shorty... :)
 

jrpark22000

Premium member
This week’s update

The Pico tried committing suicide while I was away for a long weekend. I came home to find salt creep created wicking action over the back corner of the AC70. I’m still not quite sure how but once I lifted the lid and broke the wick the dripping stopped. The salinity was down to 39.8ms (1.018). It started sometime after I left Friday morning and I caught it Sunday about noon. The frag and the CB shrimp are still both healthy looking and both are acting normal. I’ll take the week to slowly raise the salinity back up to where it should be, otherwise no change. No point doing most of the water tests during the unplanned hypo…

Parameters since last update;

Nitrates untested
Ammonia untested
pH 7.9-8.31
Temp 76.7-77.9
ALK 7.5
CA - untested
Salinity 39.8-53.2ms (1.018-1.026)
PAR 55

AWC runs 10 mins daily, about 1 cup
 

jrpark22000

Premium member
This week’s update

No real updates other than I'm still raising salinity. I'm replacing ATO water with 1.026 new water so it's taking a while. CB shrimp and frag are both doing well, but the frag is spending a lot more time closed this week. I'm looking forward to getting the salinity stable again.

Side note about the heater, the temp is rock solid now that it is controlled with the Apex. It confirms the thermostat in the cobalt is crap.

Parameters since last update;

Nitrates untested
Ammonia untested
pH 7.87-8.31
Temp 76.8-77.8
ALK 7.5
CA - untested
Salinity 39.8-48.9ms (1.018-1.023)
PAR 55

AWC runs 10 mins daily, about 1 cup


View attachment 14829
 

jrpark22000

Premium member
This week’s update

Salinity is back to normal. Replacing ATO with new saltwater did raise ALK. The frag is much happier as you can see in the photo. I also did another flatworm exit treatment to kill the growing population of red flatworms. As for equipment, I replaced the AC70 case with a new one. The old one had 2 cracks I've previously fixed and it sat too high above the water line causing micro bubbles. I modified the new one to sit about 3/8" lower which also allows for a higer tank water level. When the filter is turned off there is less water to drain back into the tank.


Parameters since last update;

Nitrates undetectable
Ammonia undetectable
pH 7.95-8.46
Temp 76.8-77.8
ALK 8-8.5
CA - 460-480
Salinity 48.9-53.2ms (1.023-1.026)
PAR 55

AWC runs 10 mins daily, about 1 cup



View attachment 15099
 

jrpark22000

Premium member
This week’s update, and probably the last of the growout period.

I'm at 3 heads, with no baby bumps. I never saw the second original head open, so from 1 head to 3 over the 3 months. There were a couple bumps but overall the first period went well. I'm am suprised at all the life growing on the rocks, they are covered in stuff; bacterial mats, weird bacterial puffs on stalks, small blue/purple clove polyps, red sponge or coraline, and a couple algea discs on stalks. Also, most of the purple coraline has vanished from the rocks except for a single patch. The CB shrimp molts about once a month and eats once a day. The K1 has proven itself quite well and the AC70 is still being tweaked to run optimally.


Parameters since last update;

Nitrates undetectable
Ammonia undetectable
pH 7.96-8.29
Temp 76.8-77.8
ALK 7.5-8
CA - 460-480
Salinity 52.4-53.6ms (1.026)
PAR 55

AWC runs 10 mins daily, about 1 cup

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jrpark22000

Premium member
Frankie's update spurred this update.

The bacterial mats have continued to grow thicker. Almost or all of the cloves and other animal/plant life on the LR is gone except for the mats. Experimenting, I pulled out the small rock and scrubbed the bacteria off. Within a week it was back as strong as it was before the scrubbing. It’s not offensive to look at, so I’ll let the tank continue to mature and see what happens. The frag and CB shrimp are still doing well and the tank runs pretty much on auto pilot. I adjust salinity once a week or so to keep it in range and test alk every couple days.

I'm game for any frag for next period, but would prefer anything other than a z/p. I voted lps as they are popular and may be the easiest to find a cool frag that can be easily managed to find a winner at the end. With the new open rules, I’ll be a part of the competition for next round. I may also look at setting up a ALK doser to keep parameters more stable during my work trips.
 

jrpark22000

Premium member
Not sure about fragclub, but if it does continue the rules are open to other stuff in the Pico. I’ve still got the last zoa growout in there growing nicely as well as the CB shrimp. Anyone have any cool thoughts on what to do with the tank? Fish are out of the question, but the empty tank is begging form something other than a couple zoas.

Let’s hear your ideas; crazy, wild, whatever.
 

Herbie

Banned
Here is my idea: Take the foam pad off the bottom and clean the tank so it is clear on all sides. Then build a stand that will hold the tank upside down with the rim just under water in your AIO tank with no lid (if you don't have one of those, get one). Then us a small wet/dry vac to suck the air out of the tank from underneath thus drawing water into the smaller. Then your fish can have a skyscraper skylight.
 

jrpark22000

Premium member
That is crazy Herbie! I remember seeing someone doing just that some time ago. I did a google search and cannot find it. I do have a spare 2.2 that I could do that on my DT, but alas I do not have an AIO. The three existing tanks are enough for me.

Edit*** found one on youtube.

[video=youtube;fJaktYSxOpo]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fJaktYSxOpo[/video]
 
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jrpark22000

Premium member
Still trying to figure out what way I’d like to tank this tank. I’ve been thinking a hitchhiker themed tank incorporating; sponges, ball anemone, tube/xmas worms, and any cool low need hitchhikers. That tank is low nutrient so that will be the biggest challenge to overcome, how to feed enough to keep the animals/inverts happy and keep the system ultralow maintenance.

Any thoughts or cool hitchhikers in your tanks?
 

jrpark22000

Premium member
For anyone with a tunze nano 3152.

My ATO has been acting up and sticking in both up and down position. It left me baffled as I knew the float was clean and burr free. I opened a RC tunze thread on it. Due to the thin glass of this pico .2" the magnet that holds the float assembly was affecting the magnet in the float. I added a 3/8" piece of acrylic to the magnet and it works like it did a year ago when new. Pic of the problem in the RC thread.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2378125
 

tinman

Well-known member
see if the float is near any kind of magnetic substance .. for example the litle frag rocks and frag racks that use magnets


For anyone with a tunze nano 3152.

My ATO has been acting up and sticking in both up and down position. It left me baffled as I knew the float was clean and burr free. I opened a RC tunze thread on it. Due to the thin glass of this pico .2" the magnet that holds the float assembly was affecting the magnet in the float. I added a 3/8" piece of acrylic to the magnet and it works like it did a year ago when new. Pic of the problem in the RC thread.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2378125
 

jrpark22000

Premium member
There is no other magnets on the tank. I only thought to use the spacer after Tunze sales person asked if I swapped it for another stronger tunze magnet. When I move the magnet, the float followed it but the float rubbed hard against the guide post. After adding the spacer the float moves freely, although it is still slanted some due to the magnet.
 

jrpark22000

Premium member
Not at all. The only flow is from an HOB AC70 that has been modified to flow even lower than normal. With the shroud around the ATO it does not move at all due to water flow.

I'll work tomorrow to get some of the photos back up.
 

jrpark22000

Premium member
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jrpark22000

Premium member
Time for a little update.

I must have missed a couple posts during the rebuild. After some more time under the microscope, I do believe the bacterial mats are actually dinoflagellates. There were a couple links in the deleted thread identifying similar species using web references, oh well. I tried increasing pH to the 8.4-8.5 number for several months during the winter but even with alk at 11, pH was still only 8.3-8.4 due to ambient co2.

I’m still experimenting with the dino. For some time I’ve been taking the rocks out and scrubbing them with a tooth brush under tap water. It still leaves the dino in the rock but it gets rid of all the fuzzies. Usually takes a month or two for the rocks to be fuzzy again. I recently took a couple rocks and cooked then in vinegar. WOW, I was surprised how imbedded into the pores of the rock the dino went. It took a full cook removing all organics to rid them of dino. Two weeks later and the dino is already recolonizing the rocks. Tenacious stuff!

I’ll wait for warm temps so I can air out the co2 from the room, re-cook a couple rocks, then elevate pH for the summer and see what happens.
 

jrpark22000

Premium member
Anyway, onto the good stuff. The newest addition. Reef-Gen Purple photosynthetic Collospongia sp. sponge. Picked it up from DiversDen over the weekend. It looks and feels similar to a terrestrial mushroom, silky skin and wobbles when moved about. If it takes to the tank it should be a pretty cool center piece. I’ve got photos here of what I hope it’ll look like once grown.
http://www.chicagoreefs.com/forums/showthread.php?18472-WTB-Collospongia-sp-blue-or-purple-photosynthetic-sponge

I’m still looking for a maricultured collospongia but in the mean time I’ll start with this one.

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