SkullV's Aquarium Adventures

SkullV

New member
I just ordered a gyer 130 for my 105 now you got me second guessing that it's not going to be enough flow for my tank, seeing I recall you got a 40 breeder right?
Yep, 40br. In my opinion one XF150 would be fine on a 40 but there were dead spots so I went with 2 since I have the apex to control them. There is no way a single 130 will work on a 105. I'm not even sure a single 150 would work for a full SPS tank.
 
i think the 130 was just enough for my 70g when i had it on the side...it was on at full blast so anything larger than a 70g i would probably have gotten a 150 or 2 130s

with them in the back, i only have them at like 40% before my sand starts getting kicked up
 

rockhead

Well-known member
Well makes be think also on my 120 running only 2 mp40s , but I have been keeping my eyes out for a 150, looking great as usual Ted
 

SkullV

New member
Well makes be think also on my 120 running only 2 mp40s , but I have been keeping my eyes out for a 150, looking great as usual Ted
Thanks! I've always been a huge proponent of Vortech pumps, but I think I would need like 4 mp40s to get the type (not amount) of flow I have in this tank right now. If MaxSpect's patent, which is currently contested at the USPTO, is not issued, Ecotech should really do something along the lines of a "better" gyre.

Also....let there be light! Will mount it today:

Both channels


Just royal blue


Just white/blue:
 

SkullV

New member
My new and improved "apex ready" DIY T5/LED hybrid! Very happy with the finished product. Can't wait to see how the corals color up under these. Hopefully I'll have some time to get some PAR readings tomorrow:



 

SkullV

New member
Ted any par results? You get what you where looking for? Now post up your FTT
I did! Running around 550 at the top of the rockwork (almost all the same since my scape is flat-ish) 250-300 in the sand and 200 in the outside corners. That is with all bulbs on and all LEDs at 100%. Right now I'm running the Royal Blues up to 100% and the white/blue channel up to 60%. I'll probably swap two white chips out for royal blue chips and run that one up to 100% as well but want to do it slowly (even though I don't think it'll make a whole lot of difference).

FTT is looking brownish but the nutrient problem is finally done with (RIP Exploding Borb) so alk consumption is back up to where it was before I started feeding several frozen feelings a day. Back to undetectable nitrate and Phos at <0.01ppm so I'm adding acro power back into the weekly regimen. Hopefully I see improvement in the next couple weeks. Either way the coral is healthy and growing!

Now the race is on to move into our new home (just prequalified for our mortgage) and get my new tank set up before my new 1.75" present from NYAquatic outgrows this tank. I also need it for my sanity since this tank is finally "done" and other than the new skimmer I'm getting, there's nothing left to do. I even found temporary homes for all my euphyllia. Just need to find temporary homes for my gorgonians and GSP. They'll all be going in a rack mounted refugium in my fish room.



A horrible quality growth shot of the WWC SOTR Milli from 1/2016 to 5/2016 too. Has always beef at 450+ Par and has the great green and red coloration. A little blue coming in deep in the center but you can only see it top down unfortunately.
 
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SkullV

New member
I have my WWC SOtR at 725PAR and it's a very deep dark purplish red...no green on it at all except shaded parts
That's a ton of PAR! According to the research posted on Advanced Aquarist 725 is WAY over the photosaturation point for most (maybe all?) coral. It's obviously working for you though. I'm sure mine is actually somewhat higher than 550 due to all the blue LED but with no optics it's hard to say.
 
That's a ton of PAR! According to the research posted on Advanced Aquarist 725 is WAY over the photosaturation point for most (maybe all?) coral. It's obviously working for you though. I'm sure mine is actually somewhat higher than 550 due to all the blue LED but with no optics it's hard to say.
I have most of my SPS at extremely high PAR according to the community PAR meter i just borrowed...i had no idea it was that high but i saw no bleaching/burnt tips so i didn't think anything was wrong and i slowly raised my levels in a period of months to get them this high...and then the first time i measured it was when Tom brought his PAR meter over and i was seeing 2500PAR AWL and 700-800 over the top of the rocks! i couldn't believe it...then i borrowed the community PAR meter and got the same results...still, nothing burns in there which is weird...so i didn't change anything - if it's not broke, why fix it, right?

i'm curious to read that research paper though..do you have a link? if it really isn't beneficial to have my sps at this high intensity, i'm going to consider slowly lowering my levels or raising up the lights

PS - it's also important to note i use all LEDs - 2 Hydra 52 HD over the DT and 1 Hydra 26 HD over the FT...all 3 are maxed out, lol...PAR meters are kind of inaccurate with LEDs right?
 
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SkullV

New member
I have most of my SPS at extremely high PAR according to the community PAR meter i just borrowed...i had no idea it was that high but i saw no bleaching/burnt tips so i didn't think anything was wrong...and then the first time i measured it was when Tom brought his PAR meter over and i was seeing 2500PAR AWL and 700-800 over the top of the rocks! i couldn't believe it...then i borrowed the community PAR meter and got the same results...still, nothing burns in there which is weird...so i didn't change anything - if it's not broke, why fix it, right?

i'm curious to read that research paper though..do you have a link? if it really isn't beneficial to have my sps at this high intensity, i'm going to consider slowly lowering my levels or raising up the lights

PS - it's also important to note i use all LEDs - 2 Hydra 52 HD over the DT and 1 Hydra 26 HD over the FT...all 3 are maxed out, lol...PAR meters are kind of inaccurate with LEDs right?
They are inaccurate but they read low, so your par is probably even higher!

Here is one article with a chart:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1/
 
They are inaccurate but they read low, so your par is probably even higher!

Here is one article with a chart:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2007/3/aafeature1/
thanks man...i didn't get to read (nor understand) most of it but sounds like even though i'm not burning anything and things look good, it's entirely possible i'm still photoinhibiting some of them that are in too high of a PAR...could be why some of my acros aren't growing or growing very slowly

TdF, however, that's gone apeshit lately is under 850 PAR, i kid you not, and it seems he loves it...i'm going to try to borrow that PAR meter again and start raising up my lights so most of my sps are around 500-600
 

SkullV

New member
Nutrients coming down and new lights up for a little. Corals seem to be responding well!

Original Oregon Tort:


ORA Pearlberry:


TCK Optimus Prime (has a long road ahead to look like TCK's stock photo):


The [MENTION=636]Gary[/MENTION] Sunset Monti:


ORA Marshall Islands Yellow Fuzzy:


Wet Thumbs Mother of Pearl (the iridescence isn't a camera effect, it's one crazy looking coral!):


WWC Somewhere Over The Rainbow Milli:


ReefGen Ghost Orchid Stylo (probably the same as Jason Fox Bugout and Tyree Rainbow, but who knows):


No Name Stag:


ORA Borealis:


WCR French B:
 
you always take such awesome pics! seriously i tried those white balance steps you posted (the one where you choose custom balance twice) and couldn't get it to work...are you using macro lens?
 

SkullV

New member
you always take such awesome pics! seriously i tried those white balance steps you posted (the one where you choose custom balance twice) and couldn't get it to work...are you using macro lens?
Thanks! Sometimes I do have to go through the white balance process several (dozens) of times before I get it to look right. Usually after you take the first 2 photos you can keep referencing the newest photo until it looks right.

No macro lens. I just got lucky and my aquascape is at just the right height under the water to get good focus with max zoom on my kit lens. This round of top down pics are actually all through the water too, no viewing box/porthole type device (although I do want a 100mm macro and porthole).
 

SkullV

New member
Corals are looking happy Ted. What do you shoot for nitrate-wise?
Thanks! I have honesty no idea on the nitrate. I'm assuming based on the biopellet use that it is very very low. Prior to the borb over feeding frozen period I had to dose acropower and feed Coral Frenzy several times weekly to maintain SPS color.
 
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